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Thread: Isuzu C240 powered Series 3

  1. #381
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
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    The transfer box has jumped into neutral almost every time I've taken Wallit for a drive, I'd looked at the linkage & gear lever to make sure that nothing was restricting the travel and all was OK.
    A new transfer box detent plunger & spring came in the last consignment of spares from the UK.
    Today I finally got round to pulling the seats out and having a look at the situation.


    With the toolbox under the centre seat removed I removed the small cover plate on the transfer box and also the detent spring & cap.
    Holding my finger on the detent plunger and changing from High to Low allowed me to feel the three detent positions.




    Neutral & Low were OK, so was High but looking in the transfer box there was a little more movement left after the detent position to fully engage High.
    I undid the clamp bolt on the selector fork and slid it forward a fraction (there is a cutout in the shaft the bolt locates in so very little movement available). Re-tightened the bolt and now at the detent position it had better engagement.

    The detent plunger was worn at the end and the spring had been stretched at some point in it's life. The wire diameter was thicker than the replacement but it seemed to have about the same compression.

    Here are the old parts.



    So back together and off for a run (after filling in my logbook). Didn't get time to go far but no issues with dropping into neutral, need a longer run next weekend.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  2. #382
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
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    Took Wallit out for a run in the cold this morning.
    Unfortunately no garage space so Wallit sits outside. This meant it was a while before the windows demisted and it was raining inside from the condensation on the inside of the roof !

    Drove to Imlachs in Clayton (a self-serve wreckers) to get some parts for one of the boy's Subaru's. Transfer box stayed engaged the whole trip there & back so hopefully another thing ticked off the list.

    Too cold/wet for paintwork so the replacement bonnet will have to wait, the one fitted is shedding rust from the ribs that are rusting away.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  3. #383
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,795
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    Wallit has been used locally on a fairly regular basis and the transfer box is now behaving itself.

    At the weekend I decided to check all the oils. Transfer & gearbox were down a bit and one front swivel hub was low, I've been having problems since I found the drain plug was stripped. I helicoiled it but it still doesn't want to seal properly.

    Everything else was OK.

    Sitting on the driveway idling Wallit does shake around, I think I've mentioned previously that I was thinking about raising the tickover a bit. Anyway, a lot of noise was coming from the rear door top stays rattling around. Some of the Terry clips had been doubled up by the previous owner (a clip within a clip) and a few bits of rubber slipped on here & there. After looking & fiddling I found that the pop rivet that held one of the Terry clips in place had worked loose. Drilled it out and fitted another sealed rivet and the rattling stopped !

    Must do a bit more prep on the spare bonnet and get ready for painting when the weather warms up a bit. I also need to recover the dash which is held together with insulating tape.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  4. #384
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
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    I did a run to Harkaway Scout camp last week and had the opportunity to try low range. No jumping out so happy that the transfer box is sorted.

    Still getting a few clunks on cornering. Seems to be the leaf springs moving on the bushes (grease the bolt but not the outside of the bush where it fits into the spring !). Fixed one with a polybush but still have a problem.
    May tidy up the rear springs I took off the Series III wagon I've just parted out, fit new bushes (without grease) and see if that fixes it !

    There is a water leak that allows the rear tub to take on a cupful or two when it rains, seems to be where the sidepanels meet the capping on the tub. Checking a spare sidepanel it looks as though the seal was originally a special extrusion that latched in place. I've seen companies selling just a rectangular EPDM sponge extrusion to replace it instead.
    Anyone replaced these seals. I'd be interested to find out what works before I start the job.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  5. #385
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Irymple, Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    2,902
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    Colin I bought some black foam/spongey rubber recently to do exactly what you are talking about, plus for a seal around the rear safari door. It is about 12mm thick and I got it from CC Components who are conveyor belt and matting specialists. They have a good stock of rubber products. For the rear door seal I intend to stick two pieces together to ensure a good seal.


    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  6. #386
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
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    Mick,

    I know CC Components, used to deal with them in Mildura, they were a reseller for a pneumatic company I worked for..

    I've found a company locally that actually extrude the seal so hoping to buy direct (cut out all the middle men) but I might have to buy a 30mtr roll which even by my standards is excessive.

    From my rough measurements it seems to need 12mm x 20mm to do the job.

    The alternative is to add it to the next order from Paddocks, not sure if they sell the correct profile or just the rectangular section.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  7. #387
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Free Again Thanks Dan
    Posts
    10,150
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    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    Mick,

    I know CC Components, used to deal with them in Mildura, they were a reseller for a pneumatic company I worked for..

    I've found a company locally that actually extrude the seal so hoping to buy direct (cut out all the middle men) but I might have to buy a 30mtr roll which even by my standards is excessive.

    From my rough measurements it seems to need 12mm x 20mm to do the job.

    The alternative is to add it to the next order from Paddocks, not sure if they sell the correct profile or just the rectangular section.


    Colin
    Colin maybe see if there is a call for more people to hop in on the 30 mtr roll maybe group buy .
    Depending on cost it could work out good for all concerned . I know i could use some until i go the rag top

  8. #388
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Irymple, Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    2,902
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    Count me in on a group buy.


    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  9. #389
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,795
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    I'd better see if they will sell to me, also I'd better double check the size needed !

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  10. #390
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,795
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    Looks like 25mm x 13mm EPDM sponge extrusion is about right.
    The foam will be compressed tight against the capping on the tub (might need a bit of effort getting the sidepanel to sit down in the correct position). The nearest alternative is 22mm x 12mm.

    I found some 25mm x 13mm I'd purchased from 4-Wheel Drives some years back so it's probably the best size......



    The original was moulded with an undercut to latch under the angled strip. There are also traces of what looks like glue that held it into place.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

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