I have thought about fitting a 4BD1T to a series without fitting a Stage 1/ 110 front end.
If you are happy to chop the firewall the engine could be moved back a lot further than in a Stage 1 / 110. Which would also help weight distribution.
In a worst case scenario you would also need a rear-mounted radiator.
Last edited by JDNSW; 4th June 2012 at 03:05 PM. Reason: spelling
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
But that was also by moving the front cross member forward, flattening the line of the front and modifying the transmission tunnel.
What I would also like to see with these comparative charts are:Then the chart will be useful and actually make sense.
- The overall length of the engine?
- RPM range and peak torque of engine?
- Position of the engine mountings?
- External fittings that will obstruct original chassis/mountings?
- External fittings that will obstruct front axle?
- Position and direction of exhaust outlet.
- Availability of aftermarket adapters?
It would also be useful if there were gearbox options and adapter availability included.
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
I figured the gearbox would be up for replacement. May as well replace the transfer case at the same time if I were to go down that road.
I shall try to add some of this info in the near future. Unfortunately I don't have anywhere near enough knowledge to fill it all. Perhaps others could chip in?
The other factor is what motor did the Landy have from the factory. The 4cyl and the 6cyl were built with a different firewall and gearbox position.
The 6cyl has a recessed firewall so the 6 cylinder motor can fit under the bonnet and the gearbox I'm pretty sure sits further back - all in comparison to the 4 cyl. The Xmembers underneath will be positioned to suit.
This affects the room you have to work with. The Series Landy gearbox is about 700mm from the front of the bellhousing to the back of the handbrake + motor length with fan and radiator, but you will probably find that just about all of these engines have longer gearboxs with transfer cases than the rover so that may still limit the combination that you could put in.
Anyway, I've already posted what to look for.
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
Some of the info you need to have photos and lay the measuring stick on the engine. Other info like RPM bands and torque are available from the manufacturer.
Things to look for are the oil filter pointing forward and down at the bottom/front of the engine. Winged sumps. Injector pumps low down on the LHS of the engine or even the RHS. Exhaust manifolds that point down at the LHS chassis rail or RHS prop shaft.
If you can compile a good enough chart I'll make a sticky out of it.
Diana
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
The 4BD1 is a fair sized engine. There's not many 4L ( close to) 4cyl diesels around. They seem to produce a fair amount of torque but I think the 4BD1T is the one to go for. Or even a 200TDI they just slip straight onto the series bellhousing.
The Nissan TD27 Turbo (Terrano 1) is strong and reliable as a piece of granite.
Power is on par with the 300TDi.
mechanical fuel pump, reacts well to an IC and some pump tweaks etc.
It would be one of my first choices.
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