FWIW here is a little trap that I fell into doing the same job.
The resulting failure was a little more epic but its something to note anyway.
See this thread
Valve block rebuild - be aware of this .....
Dave
Hi James
assume you have done the "soapy water spray" test to confirm that there is no leak at the collet in to the valve block?
Next step is to pull of the solenoid for that corner and confirm that the o-ring on the shaft is sealing ok (i.e. not crushed) and the foot of the solenoid is sealing. I have lightly sanded mine to smooth out the rubber feet at the base of the shaft.
I still get the occassional unexplained drop overnight though. Mine sat for the past 2 days in my front yard, on a slope, and did not lose any noticable height. Other times it can sit flat in the garage overnight and lose height.
Cheers, Paul.
My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com
FWIW here is a little trap that I fell into doing the same job.
The resulting failure was a little more epic but its something to note anyway.
See this thread
Valve block rebuild - be aware of this .....
Dave
2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 Autobiography
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
2004 Freelander TD4 SE
1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
1994 Range Rover Vogue
----------------------------------------
No prizes for guessing... Naturally I've chuckied out the old O rings, as you do....
At least I know "why"
Thanks to all, and 'no', I dunno how it happened.
James
The 'EH', '95 Vogue with leaking air suspension.....
Yes I had that Too Superquag. But I never throw anything away. Just picked out a good? used one Fixed
Gary
I think we should throw some spares in to the O-ring kits we sell at Hard Range for situations like this.
Personally, I don't throw out my old o-rings at all. I keep them in a container to use as packers/washers for fiddly and vibrating bits, and in case I need to re-use the better ones.
What is the consensus of a "reasonable" number of spares for each type? Put another way, which ones are more likely to need revisiting after assembly?
We already supply extra o-rings for the 6mm and 8mm lines, and an extra for the NRV's. Your "reasonable" views wanted
Cheers, Paul.
My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com
Had unexplainable slow leak(s) causing "drooping" following the Valve Block rebuild done the other week...
No visible soapy water issues so pulled the whole thing back out. While checking all the o-rings were actually put in, an extra o-ring (? who knows how ?) fell out from under a solenoid cover - so I think, maybe it had been stuck up there and created the problem. Yippee, quick fix! Put her all back together and still drooping after an hour. Crap.
Whipped it all out again and virtually rebuilt it completely. No errors, No visible issues. Reconnected it to the pump and plugged it all in without re-installing and got it going. Sprayed the old soapy water everywhere and no visible leaks. Crap.
Jumped on here and found this thread and remembered I hadn't checked those little light weight o-rings on the solenoid shafts. Back to the car and spray around the solenoid covers... sure as eggs, bubbles, bubbles and more bubbles!
Pulled the offending "leakers" and remembered I had twisted the shafts when re-installing (in an effort to try and seat them) and had actually monstered the o-rings. Luckily, I had some spares on hand.
Morale(s) of the story...
1. Don't twist the solenoid shafts to seat their o-rings, just align carefully and tighten squarely.
2. EAS is best understood when problem solving.
3. AULRO ROCK'S for DIY'ers.
Hoo-Roo, Dave.
P.S. To answer that year or two old question Paul, add a few spares of the solenoid shaft rings to the kits. The seem to be the most delicate and easy to damage.
Photo of the 3 solenoid shaft o-rings I damaged and the extra that fell out of a solenoid cover!
Hoo-Roo,
Dave.
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