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Thread: Aircon woes

  1. #1
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    Aircon woes

    The latest feature sent to test my love for this vehicle, is airconditioning that stops working when it gets hot.

    When I set off in the morning it appears to be working 100%, very cold air, comfortable no problem. As everything heats up it stops blowing cold air and essentially it is just blowing air.

    It appears that the compressor stops cutting in.

    I saw in RAVE that there is some kind of a thermal cut out switch on the compressor, but not sure if that could be the problem or the main controller not working properly.

    Has anyone had this kind of problem before ?
    2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 Autobiography
    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
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  2. #2
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    Have you checked that it is the clutch not staying enagaged?

    If that's the case:
    1. How's the compressor clutch air gap? That seems to be the common cause of the clutch dropping out when hot.
    2. Does your RR have the extra clutch relay fitted?
    Scott

  3. #3
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    Hi Scouse

    Please tell me more about the compressor clutch air gap as I haven't heard of it before.

    How would I check for the additional relay ?

    Signed
    Clueless !
    2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 Autobiography
    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    2004 Freelander TD4 SE
    1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by adm333 View Post
    Please tell me more about the compressor clutch air gap as I haven't heard of it before.
    Have a read here under "Compressor Clutch Failure":
    Range Rover P38/4.0/4.6 Common Problems and Fixes

    Basically the clutch wears & the gap grows. The magnet isn't strong enough to bridge the bigger gap so the clutch drops out.

    Chances are that the shim has been removed already but it's only a 30sec job to check. If it has been removed & the gap is still too big, then you can machine (or grind as I did) the centre boss down.

    LR have a mod to the harness too to make sure that voltage drop isn't the cause. It's not exactly cheap but it does help.
    Scott

  5. #5
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    More info on the air gap here too (with piccies):
    http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-r...ac-pulley.html
    Scott

  6. #6
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    Cheers Scouse

    I take it you can see it all once you remove this black metal cover ?

    Do you have to remove the drive belts or anything major ?
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    2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 Autobiography
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  7. #7
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    Scouse

    OK, I think I might have the extra wiring loom and relay.

    However, can you confirm which relay should be used.

    On my fuse box it has a green outline for relay 10 indicating it should be one of the green realys, but in fact there is a yellow one in there.

    I have a spare green one, but I thought I would check to see which one is correct first.

    Cheers
    Dave
    2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 Autobiography
    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    2004 Freelander TD4 SE
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  8. #8
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    Alright, I found the technical bulletin on my RAVE CD and can confirm that I have the additional wiring loom modification.

    However, I notice 2 points that may be rendering it inoperable.

    1. It states that a 10 amp fuse should be in slot F40 in the engine bay fuse box - there is none there now.

    2. Studying the circuit diagram for the relay shows a 5 point relay, which is a green one. I seem to have a 4 point yellow relay.

    So I figure if I fix those two things I might be closer to a cooler ride.

    Alternatively, look for a big smoke cloud on the horizon above Carina ....

    Signed
    Clueless, now dangerously armed with partial information
    2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 Autobiography
    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    2004 Freelander TD4 SE
    1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
    1994 Range Rover Vogue
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  9. #9
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    Our P38a isn't here ATM but I'm sure the belt doesn't need to come off. The nut secures to front clutch plate to the shaft so as long as it undoes OK, the plate should come off easily. If the nut is very tight, then you'll have to lock the plate to stop it turning somehow (I wouldn't recommend big multigrips but they worked for me).

    The car is back tonight so I can have a look which relay & fuse goes where but I'm sure Ron will have the info today..........won't you Ron....
    Scott

  10. #10
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    Did the later cars use a different fuse box?

    The new relay (in mine) went into the vacant RL10 slot and is black.

    It's a 4-pin relay so a yellow will be fine - the other pin is not connected (see diagram below). F40 has a 10 amp fuse.

    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
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    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

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