Im up for a play with it, If I can find the right chuck head for my lathe.
the front plate has shims to set the air gap.
remove to reset it about 0.5mm+
then test to see if it drags when hot.
problems:
compressor gets old the imput shaft can be pulled in reducing the gap when low pressure is pressent in the suction side of compressor-[cold].so it drags.afte adjusting run withot the cover to test.
Low voltage-i think some have a water overheat relay-most at sometime get an extra relay fitted with direct fused power.some had pressure switch isues-no reason full power must go through these switches.
the thermol overload in the rear dies-it a mechanical switch to brake the circuit when the compressor overheats.
if the clutch has been slipping often the coil needs extra current [evidence of a short].
clutch is common with another car-compressor is not common.replacment compressors are often not the same.
P/s often have to take the high spots of the surface to stop it slipping.the pulley/disc have recessed cooling slots and the high spots cut into the slots breaking the pulley.
Im up for a play with it, If I can find the right chuck head for my lathe.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
I'll have a go at removing the shims, and if that doesn't work I'll look at more drastic measures.
I took it out for a drive and it seemed to go a lot longer, so I think the power side has helped, but now it must be clutch itself I'd say.
I saw a yellow billboard saying "Want Longer Lasting Aircon ? "
I might give them a call
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2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 Autobiography
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
2004 Freelander TD4 SE
1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
1994 Range Rover Vogue
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Can anyone recall is it is a right hand or left hand thread to remove the clutch nut ?
2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 Autobiography
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
2004 Freelander TD4 SE
1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
1994 Range Rover Vogue
----------------------------------------
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
I have managed to get the clutch off. I'm not sure if the copper looking washer in the first picture is the "shim", not having met a shim before.
If so, it seems to be spinning around on a thread or something, it wont just pop off the shaft.
Ron, when it comes to machining did you machine around the contact (red arrow) or the shaft (green arrow) in second picture ?
2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 Autobiography
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
2004 Freelander TD4 SE
1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
1994 Range Rover Vogue
----------------------------------------
I could not get that washer / ring off, I'm not convinced it is the shim.
It certainly wouldn't prize (sp??) off and I didn't want to force it.
It seems more like the inner ring of the bearing. There is a corresponding outer ring and rubber /plastic texture in between.
2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 Autobiography
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
2004 Freelander TD4 SE
1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
1994 Range Rover Vogue
----------------------------------------
I think he's refer to the inner part of the nose bearing.
the rotor/armature--look about half way out and you see a ridge.this high point can stop the plate getting grip on the shiny chrome looking bits.
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