Thread: New P38 owner - Perth

Hey Jeremy,sounds almost identical to an incident that happened to me a few weeks ago. 200Km from home, 10-15mins after leaving the hotel where I was staying, the EAS went in to fault.
Pulled over to the side of the road, leaving the door open to prevent the car from lowering itself. Pretty much knew it was the compressor as the pressure gauge on the EAS Bypass Kit showed bugger all in the tank and I was confident that the EAS Valve Block was not leaking.
Simply pulled out the EAS Delay Timer from under the passenger seat to prevent the EAS from doing anything further, pumped up the air springs a little with a spare compressor, and drove home.
That night I pulled the compressor apart and found the new/test cylinder was stuffed after a few days use (won't be getting any more of those), replaced with a good cylinder and a new piston seal and all is good again.

EAS Unlock Cable is a great tool at the price but does take a bit of set up time. EAS Kicker Lite is simple and fast but does not tell you what it cleared... if it can clear the fault. EAS Kicker (with a small LCD screen and the EKU01 upgrade) is also great as you can read/clear faults and adjust settings.
Then there is the Nanocom Evolution and FaultMate MSV-2 which do much more than just EAS...

So, my advice is to rebuild where practical and equip yourself with one or more diagnostic tools and workarounds, that suit your needs and budget.

BTW: a common cause of an app error when launching EAS Unlock Suite is that the laptop is missing .NET Framework 2.0 or greater. Search on the Microsoft download site... I think this is the link you need Download: Microsoft .NET Framework 4 (Web Installer) - Microsoft Download Center - Download Details


Cheers, Paul.

Hi Jeremy

I have a 2001 model, I'm in Carlisle and where I can I could lend a hand with repairs etc Including reset of EAS fault.

I don't know if you have had body repairs done yet, I recommend Vulcan panel & paint they typically do show cars and restoration work. They have done many repairs with my cars over several years and have done a top job each time

Steer clear of landrover authorized repairer Lombardi
Each time My insurer has sent me there Vulcan have ended up fixing the work (at insurers expense)

Regards Peter

Ok. I got the USB-serial cable and booted up the laptop in the car.

Program seems to work ok, had no problems communicating with EAS and reading heights/faults.

After unlocking the EAS, when I hit 'pump on', I can hear a click in the engine bay, and the car seems to be drawing power for something, but nothing happens. The car will still not raise itself etc.

I am not very familiar with air compressors etc; it seems like I am about to learn!

Good, sort of... you are making progress.

Next step is to check continuity of the thermal switch across the black and orange wires coming from the compressor, and should be closed circuit. If it is open circuit, you need a new thermal switch.

See page 5 of this document http://hardrange.com/downloads/manua...Sw-Install.pdf

I have thermal switches and compressor rebuild parts here if you need any.

Cheers, Paul.

Originally Posted by jezza89

.... The car will still not raise itself etc.

I am not very familiar with air compressors etc; it seems like I am about to learn!

Yes, you will start learning.

The first thing is to build/buy a 'self-rescue' bypass setup. This gives you the option of totaly isolating any & all your airbags, allowing you to freeze them at whatever height they're at, whatever the problem is. If you use taps, then the car can still be driven whilst the valve-body etc is removed.

You're fortunate with the P38 as the air setup is in the engine-room, making the installation easy and convenient. Downside is the heat, which shortens servicable life.

James in Gosnells
'95 Classic with working EAS. (and a 'kicker' that lives in my glovebox...)

Jezza

When you had the laptop plugged in did you have all doors and tailgate closed? I usually have the laptop on the bonnet and the lead running through the open passenger window.

Regards Gary

Originally Posted by PaulP38a

Good, sort of... you are making progress.

Next step is to check continuity of the thermal switch across the black and orange wires coming from the compressor, and should be closed circuit. If it is open circuit, you need a new thermal switch.

See page 5 of this document http://hardrange.com/downloads/manua...Sw-Install.pdf

I have thermal switches and compressor rebuild parts here if you need any.

Cheers, Paul.

Finally dug out the multimeter and gave this a crack today. There is continuity in the wires coming from the compressor...

Also checked the relevant fuses and relays. Definitely all ok, and it seems to be the pump that won't come on. It's getting hot and the valves are clicking, but no deal.


Thinking of ordering a new pump from Britcar (~$250 + shipping) and hoping that will solve my drama, as long as the valve block is ok. Then I can always pull apart the old pump in my own time to fix and keep as spare?

Originally Posted by mtb_gary

Jezza

When you had the laptop plugged in did you have all doors and tailgate closed? I usually have the laptop on the bonnet and the lead running through the open passenger window.

Regards Gary

Also, yes my initial test was done sitting inside the car with all doors etc closed. Second time round I used your method and had laptop sitting beside car as I monitored air compressor etc.

Did you manage to get the pump running?