Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12

Thread: Battery failure!! After 13 months!!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Carindale, Brisbane, Qld
    Posts
    652
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Battery failure!! After 13 months!!

    A week ago RR failed to crank. That concerned me greatly, because recently when I had issues I shelled out for a big 950CCA (200RC) Century battery from only 1 year ago. I also have a 750CCA (200RC) Deep cycle in the boot on an isolator.

    I was very concerned that my alternator was going bad, but I had 13.9v accross the battery with the engine running, and I could drive for hours every day as long as I didnt stop the car. That said to me that the alternator was sending good power.

    I took the car today to the place I got the battery to get it tested. What do you know, it has dropped a cell and will never get charged more than 10volts now. It was 12.5 months old, and the warranty is 12 months! So it is a bin job. I didnt want to buy another battery with a one year warranty, so I got the century Ultra HiPo overlander. I know its not 950CCA, but its still what youd call a 'big battery'. And because I was crying all over the counter he gave it to me for $190 instead of $229. See pic 2 installed. See old battery installed.

    The lesson here is, dont assume that your relatively new battery is not the cause of power issues. Get it tested. He put a cool portable handheld tester across the battery and figured it out in two minutes. I kept the old battery, just in case I do another post to this thread in a week
    Now: 2005 L322 Vogue 4.4 M62TU (Black)
    Before: 2000 P38A HSE 4.6 - stately capability | 2008 Kluger KX-S | 2004 Forester | 2000 Yamaha XJR1300 | 1993 VR Calais | 1974 HQ Statesman - 308 V8 | HT | HK

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW Far South Coast
    Posts
    685
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I hate to say it, but your new one will probably last less than 12 months. 13.9 volts is not enough, needs to be between 14.2 and 14.4! Check this link out.

    I also noted the battery terminals are the same as the ones I've had to replace on my Rangie. Tightened as much as possible and I could still move the positive one.

    First thing I do when I buy a P38 is ADD an aditional earth lead from the alternator braket to the chassis and an another power lead from the alternator output direct to the battery positive.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    457
    Total Downloaded
    0
    that's a really interesting link ytt105. I'll be doing some tests to check out mine tonight.
    Its probably been discussed before somewhere, however, can anyone "highly" recommend a certain battery for a P38?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Scarborough QLD
    Posts
    524
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Had exactly the same problem with my Nissan Patrol (now gone thank god). The alternator went while it was still under warranty. So they fixed the alternator and fitetd a brand new Century battery. 14 months later the new battery dropped a cell and it was out of warranty. Maybe it's something with the manufacture of Century batteries?

    Ivan

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Carindale, Brisbane, Qld
    Posts
    652
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by ytt105 View Post
    I hate to say it, but your new one will probably last less than 12 months. 13.9 volts is not enough, needs to be between 14.2 and 14.4! Check this link out.
    Yep, I almost know the RR.net electrical sticky by heart I should have said that the 13.9 was at idle, and with the broken battery. Broken batteries cause a load. It is 14.2 this morning at idle with the new battery.

    Quote Originally Posted by ytt105 View Post
    I also noted the battery terminals are the same as the ones I've had to replace on my Rangie. Tightened as much as possible and I could still move the positive one.
    Thanks. I have become increasingly suspicious about these dinosaurs. They are really getting tarnished and assuming that process is also going on on the inside, its time to replace. This is an area we shouldnt skimp on.

    Quote Originally Posted by ytt105 View Post
    First thing I do when I buy a P38 is ADD an aditional earth lead from the alternator braket to the chassis and an another power lead from the alternator output direct to the battery positive.
    Me too. The blue lead in the pic is an additional big earth from neg batt to alternator/block mount. My RR already has a direct connection from Alt to Batt pos - where did your original charging cable go via?
    Now: 2005 L322 Vogue 4.4 M62TU (Black)
    Before: 2000 P38A HSE 4.6 - stately capability | 2008 Kluger KX-S | 2004 Forester | 2000 Yamaha XJR1300 | 1993 VR Calais | 1974 HQ Statesman - 308 V8 | HT | HK

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW Far South Coast
    Posts
    685
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I fitted ADDITIONAL leads to both negative and positive. Leave the originals there, after cleaning all the contacts of course.

    14.2 is good, but still do all the test in the link.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Carindale, Brisbane, Qld
    Posts
    652
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by ytt105 View Post
    I fitted ADDITIONAL leads to both negative and positive. Leave the originals there, after cleaning all the contacts of course.
    14.2 is good, but still do all the test in the link.
    Yes, additional. I mentioned that I added an additional cable in the previous post. The original remains. I will be upgrading the original charging cable with a significantly larger gauge and replacing the aging terminals before they cause additional problems.
    Now: 2005 L322 Vogue 4.4 M62TU (Black)
    Before: 2000 P38A HSE 4.6 - stately capability | 2008 Kluger KX-S | 2004 Forester | 2000 Yamaha XJR1300 | 1993 VR Calais | 1974 HQ Statesman - 308 V8 | HT | HK

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,234
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi Glen
    Supercharge batteries at Willawong have a good range and provide a hefty AULRO discount...well they did 12m ago!!
    cheers

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Pakenham
    Posts
    587
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The optima yellow top batteries is another one. I bought one about six month ago and have been really happy with the performance. If you can stretch the budget a little, they're worth every penny. Not only are they a cranking battery, but a deep cycle one too, no maintenance required, so no notorious acid spills when off roading. Plus they're vibration resistant. You can get a good deal on www. Batteriesdirect.com.au

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Carindale, Brisbane, Qld
    Posts
    652
    Total Downloaded
    0

    all fixed

    I have very good news to report. I sent email to century batteries expressing my dissapointment in their 950cca battery's reliability. They called me the next day and told me to return to the dealer and i would get fixed up,

    Well i am happy to report that they refunded me the cost of the new battery and replaced the failed battery even though it was two weeks over warranty. So a big public thanks to century batterys australia for caring about their customer's woes and also to Battery World cannon hill (Brisbane) for their excellent customer service, i recommend them.

    So now i have a big honking 950cca and 200rc battery back and RR is running fine.
    Now: 2005 L322 Vogue 4.4 M62TU (Black)
    Before: 2000 P38A HSE 4.6 - stately capability | 2008 Kluger KX-S | 2004 Forester | 2000 Yamaha XJR1300 | 1993 VR Calais | 1974 HQ Statesman - 308 V8 | HT | HK

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!