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Thread: Buying a P38

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Buying a P38

    Looking out for our first RR. Here's what I know:
    1. You don't need deep pockets if you have a clue.
    2. Make sure maintenance is done. Airbags, EAS compressor and valve block, headlining, heater o-rings should all have been done by now.
    3. The car is complex and may have hidden faults. Use a scanner to see if there are any faults in the computer.
    4. Look for one owned by someone who is passionate about the car not someone who views it as transport and nothing more. I want a 'sorely missed member of the family'!

    So.. who want's to help me out with a loan of a scanner when I go and look at a car? Happy to pick it up and drop it off. I don't want to buy one just yet in case I don't end up with a P38 (and get a D2 or something).

    Any other tips and tricks? YTT05 is banned from responding because I had a look at his HSE which makes him responsible for this

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Coogee, South of Fremantle, WA
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    Not sure what you are hoping to find with a scanner. If there is a fault with the car you should spot it with a thorough check. Most faults will be shown on the Dash read out at start-up (if it starts) Those who have diagnostic will no doubt have them for their specific car as licences are mostly for one vehicle only.
    Eas software is free. Problems with EAS is not a deal breaker, just negotiate the worst case $


    Loads of info when looking to buy here and other sites. If buying from an enthusiast don`t expect a dealer history. None of my cars ever go near a Repair Garage but they are never the less well serviced and maintained.
    Have a very long test drive with any prospect. You have obviously got a list of the most common issues already.

  3. #3
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    P38itis is not recognised as an addiction as yet so don't expect a Medicare rebate...though you can get plenty of therapy on this site (from fellow addicts that is...)

    EDIT: on a more serious note... look carefully for evidence of coolant leaks around the #1 and #7 cylinder headbolts. If you can get a MY99 (Bosch upgrade = VIN later than XA410482 ), it's worth paying a bit extra: upgraded auto (ZFHP24), 4 pin diffs, upgraded Wabco brake modulator, 150 Amp alternator, supposedly more reliable EFI (Bosch) ...

  4. #4
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    Thanks guys. How the freaking hell do tell for all those upgrades?!

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Here's a good thing you can do ....

    Print out your point number one

    "you don't need deep pockets if you have a clue ...."

    Use a large font, and some brightly coloured paper, and stick it somewhere prominent, such as on your fridge. Say it out loud every day as you walk past.

    After you have had your P38 for 6 - 12 months, report back here and let us know how you're going. There is a great thread here on how to sew extensions into your pockets to make them deeper.

    2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 Autobiography
    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    2004 Freelander TD4 SE
    1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
    1994 Range Rover Vogue
    ----------------------------------------

  6. #6
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    As Hoges said, get the very latest model you can, and depending on where you are looking, get someone here to have a look at it as well. Most would be happy to help !

    Dave
    2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 Autobiography
    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    2004 Freelander TD4 SE
    1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
    1994 Range Rover Vogue
    ----------------------------------------

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Craig_Keira View Post
    Thanks guys. How the freaking hell do tell for all those upgrades?!
    Not sure what you mean...

  8. #8
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    Not much more to add but to say, don't let low prices always rule your decision. i.e a 97 P38 with 115,000km selling at $9,000........ when i saw that advert a few months back the alarm bells went off, the engine was knackered and the seller played dumb!! Well as far as i know, that vehicle ended up bought by a wrecking yard for a fraction of that price after the owner couldn't sell it. Thing is, if you didn't know what to look for, it would have easily burnt the unsuspecting buyer, cause the engine had a cracked head. It ran ok when it was cold, but as soon as it warmed up it ran very ordinarily. My tip: (should you choose to go along with it) is look at at least 5 p38s, then narrow it down to the final 3, then pick the best of the 3. That is in my opinion anyway one of the safest way to iron out a goodie. Sure you may miss a good deal of one that you've seen, but patience is a virtue. And the p38 is still a bit of an un-tapped resource.

  9. #9
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    Yes, too good to be true is. I'm going to look at about 5. The thing that stopped me from buying tty05's was that it was the only one I'd seen (someone had to go first!). So I might look at about 5 or so. I'll probably have to go to Sydney and Melbourne (there's one at Albury as well which seems nice and owned by a LR nut).

  10. #10
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    What about mileage? I've seen everything from 140k to 400k. Engines rebuilt or replaced in both examples. Are there common issues at certain miles? What are the symptoms of an unhappy auto? First thing to avoid is a major repair on the trip home

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