Scouse suggested filing the ends of the LEDs flat to change their optics. It's worth a try.
The instruments look good in white with a mod to give red needles.
I hope this hasn't been done before...
I was a little uninspired by the green on the Rangie and had to pull apart the dash to fix a message centre bulb so I thought I should also have a go at putting some LEDs in there.
Pulling the dash apart is a little slow, but not at all difficult. I'm sure I'll be faster next time.
I went to Jaycar, bought LEDs to put in the message centre and also LEDs to put in the instrument illumination. I decided to go with blue.
The LEDs in the message centre were an instant fail. It did turn blue, but the LEDs are far too directional. I had three bright spots and two dark spots. I went to Repco, got the correct bulbs and also ordered some blue silicone bulb covers ($4 for 5). Temporarily, I've reverted to white on the message centre.
Jaycar's LEDs don't seem too bad. There's a bit of a bright spot in the middle of the dash. I think I can live with that. The Bulbs used were T10 4x Blue.
Here's the result:
Scouse suggested filing the ends of the LEDs flat to change their optics. It's worth a try.
The instruments look good in white with a mod to give red needles.
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Even better - frosting! I might give this a go.
LED Experiments
That looks the ticket.
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
What I did was to remove the filament bulbs from their holders, then solder a 3mm (maybe smaller) colored LED in its place.
Then wire in series a resistor on the feed wire for the dash lighting. The smaller LED means you would not get a bright spot.
But make sure you get the polarity of the LED correct when mounting.
And you have more reliable dash lighting, of course.
"TRIPE TRIPE TRIPE IS THE OTHER FORUM"
Last edited by zhoey; 8th March 2012 at 05:19 PM. Reason: Missing info
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
I read the other posts on this but offer the following FWIW:
While I had the centre console apart the last couple of days re-routing some wiring, I decided to replace some bulbs in the HEVAC panel. I discovered Jaycar now stock frosted T5 LEDs in the holder ready to plug straight into the HEVAC back panel. No need for resistors or soldering
I bought 4 x T5 LED 12v "white" globes Catalogue number is ZD0384 B8.5D. Price was $1.80 ea complete (catalogue lists them at $2.50 but the cash register price was $1.80). As a comparison, a Sydney-based supplier of LR parts has the T5 globe holder (only) listed at close on $6.... each...
Only challenge was working out the polarity... 'spot' them with a marker pen and if they don't work the first time turn them through 180deg...
There's a small dull whitish spot in the centre of the HEVAC screen which now has a bluish tinge, but the 'numbers' are quite bright... even the book symbol(which BTW only appears on hot days
) All the other signs and symbols are quite bright (again!) and they respond to the instrument light dimmer (except the HEVAC panel proper which stays at constant level of illumination)
Current offerings are in blue, red and white with/without the holder. Also available in T10 size
MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)
Photos?
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
photos implies "camera", camera somewhere else, phone is real phone which don't (I mean doesn't) take photos,
well actually I do have a phone which does take photos but it is somewhere in a secret building in Melbourne being manipulated by Telstra techs to unlock it from their network with a code supplied directly to them from the Nokia factory. They apparently got excited that one person in Australia still used a Nokia phone !!!!!!!!!!! (that's what I tell myself)
(Actually this turn of events falls into the category of "my propensity to purchase goods which fail....(several times) "etc )
In solidarity with our age demographic... will see what I can do!
cheers
MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)
Hi all...
Fairly new here, but a regular poster in the rr.net forum. Originally from NZ, but now live in the UK though...
Anyway - I have done pretty much the entire dash in LED's - all the fascia switches, clock, headlight switch, instrument binnacle, window switchpack, HEVAC and the rear door window switches. (I've also changed all the interior lights, but they were off-the-shelf/eBay purchases)
To do all of the rest of them I've actually put LED's and resistors in all the switches, (white for illumination, coloured for when the button is pressed).
I've also done the instrument panel, so the back of all the gauges are lit white, with blue needles. Have also done the message centre so it is completely white.
I mainly used 3mm wide angle LED's (they were advertised as 120 degree) and then scuffed the head of them lightly with fine sandpaper to further diffuse the light.
I also added a few extra LED's to the window switchpack, so the 4 way mirror control is now back-lit too (the switch has clear parts in the arrows - but LR never lit it!)
I've done the HEVAC with the same wide angle white LEDs - but it still comes out green, as the colouring is moulded into the back of the buttons
I know things like this are worthless without pictures... so:
007 Switches Active.jpg
045 All Done!.jpg
Cheers,
Marty
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