My thoughts were are you getting an air lock? is there a grease nipple you can remove?
Glen has given an answer here............Prop shaft fitting
Had to remove the rear propshaft today... long story... (I was replacing the trailing arms and the rear axle moved suddenly causing the prop shaft to separate... ) anyway I need to push the sliding joint back into place...damned near impossible! Is there some trick to this? I carefully fed it through the seal and engaged the splines and that's as far as it went... tried tapping into place with a rubber mallet...now it's just stuck...![]()
Also... are there any rules about lining up P38 prop shafts...I see other posts requiring the UJs to be 1 or 2 splines out of phase...does ythat apply to P38s?
thanks
My thoughts were are you getting an air lock? is there a grease nipple you can remove?
Glen has given an answer here............Prop shaft fitting
Thanks for that... yep removed the grease nipple and even gave the shaft a touch up with a heat gun...no good..
When I did the viscous coupling a couple of years ago there was no play in the splines in the front prop shaft but it did slide ...firmly.
This one is a lot firmer! ...which makes me wonder about vibration if it's not sliding easily... food for thought
cheers & thanks
Hoges I had this very same problem. I couldnt get the splined shaft in (or out) of the prop shaft. Banging gently didnt help. Cleaning the splines didnt help. I think the splines get minutely twisted after years. In the end, because I needed to get going, I forced it in and it has been fine on the vehicle for a few thousand kms, but I am still not entirely confident about it.
I do not think the alignment of the splines matter. Or didnt for me. No vibration issues but I felt like the splined section should have slid in much easier, like it always did on the gearbox of the HK/T/G holden shafts for me years ago.
Here is my thread a month ago or so: Prop shaft fitting
Now: 2005 L322 Vogue 4.4 M62TU (Black)
Before: 2000 P38A HSE 4.6 - stately capability | 2008 Kluger KX-S | 2004 Forester | 2000 Yamaha XJR1300 | 1993 VR Calais | 1974 HQ Statesman - 308 V8 | HT | HK
Thanks Glen...I had a good look at the splines and found that they were coated with a varnish substance which peeled off like layers of clear plastic when I used a sharp chisel I keep for the purpose![]()
I don't know if it is simply a byproduct of the original grease... I doubt it's ever been dismantled before...or whether it's a Loctite-type product to prevent 'slap'...
The splines are dead straight and in excellent condition otherwise. I had tried to dissolve the coating with all sorts of solvents: turps/petrol/thinners/acetone to no effect so I gave it a gentle touchup with a soft wire brush attachment on the angle grinder. Came up like new! Cleaned it and smeared moly grease on it and it slid back slowly when I leant hard on it...
cheers
Understood. I noticed that strange plastic coating too. I did some minor damage to it when I was banging the splines -out-, and I was quite worried about damaging it. It looked to me like it was meant to be there. I agree with you that it would do a great job of taking up the 'slack' and slap. Tell us how it feels and sounds now.
Now: 2005 L322 Vogue 4.4 M62TU (Black)
Before: 2000 P38A HSE 4.6 - stately capability | 2008 Kluger KX-S | 2004 Forester | 2000 Yamaha XJR1300 | 1993 VR Calais | 1974 HQ Statesman - 308 V8 | HT | HK
Did some more 'research' it's a teflon-type coating and it's meant to be there to minimise noise/slop and chance of rusting. It can deteriorate and cause the joint to seize resulting in vibrations. Once it's gone you need a new yoke...can't be replaced apparently. Just means that will need to make sure plenty of grease is plugged through the zerk fitting to minimise the effects of any water which gets past the seal.
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