Thread: What settings do you have on your air bags?

I dont have the proper bump stop axle settings but on standard tyres 16" rims the road to centre wheel arch measurements I believe are Access 740, Low 780, Standard 800 and High 840. Others can give details about Series 3 settings as I have only the standard bags and if inclined you can make up the blocks and work off the axle.

Originally Posted by poleonpom

First off, does anyone know what the original factory height settings were?

One would need to fit a set of calibration blocks and then do some measurements. I have a set of these. I did a sketch so others could duplicate them.

See http://p38arover.com/rover/p38a/LRT_60-003.pdf

I use the guard to wheel centre measurements, however they can be inaccurate due to body movement or past accidents, etc, so for something ridgey-didge you'll be after axle to bump stop measurements, otherwise go the guard measurements!

I think it's worth noting, that many of us seem to muck around with these height settings with some success, but we are talking about affecting the 'weight on wheels' at four corners and this could really affect handling. Every car's chassis is different by mm's, especially after years so the calibration block method really is safest. Consider the situation where you have slightly too much weight on diagonal corners (even 1-2mm), you could be see-sawing down the road. I dont want to be alarmist, but 2600kg objects that do 120kph should be accurately suspended.

I too am close to lifting mine slightly with Gen III springs and I reckon I will make some blocks and then make them available to the SE Qld fraternity.

Interesting. I've never actually used my blocks. Maybe I should do a calibration.

According to the official Land Rover EAS Systems Document, the Standard height for all air springs is set as follows: bump stop stub to axle pad distance 105 mm +/-4mm Rear; 100mm +/- 4mm front.
All other measurements are derived form these.

Wheel arch-floor measurements etc are all proxies for the bump stop-axle pad distance and do not take account of body twist/ill fitting panels/ anomalies in tyres etc etc.

Once you have the F/R at the correct height (make up some hardwood blocks and slot them in to set the vehicle) you can then measure the wheel arch -floor distance for each corner against the correct standard height...

hope this makes sense...

One problem I see with hardwood blocks is that inserting them between the bumpstops would be ill-advised. The bumpstops are, I believe, designed to deform under load to provide some "suspension" after an EAS hard fault.

As a result, the height might not be maintained with the blocks in place.

Good point Ron. So I guess the recommondation is to remove the bump stops before using the block calibration method...

For anyone that has not removed the bump stops, they simply push on/pull off a mushroom-shaped lug under the chassis rail. A squirt of your favourite lube up the guts of the bump stop will make it easier.

To pull them off, twist them at an angle and gently rotate until they come off.

To put them back on, my favourite method is to jack up the car, and use some wooden blocks to position the bump stops in line with the "mushrooms", then lower the car back on to them.

Cheers, Paul.