As a temporary fix, joining up the pipes is fine.
You'll probably find the pre-heat housing itself is leaking too (quite common). You may be lucky & just find it's the gasket but it's best to be prepared in case it's not.
Hey Guys,
Was casually driving home this afternoon in the rain thinking about how the Rangey was in it's element, real good pommy weather, running like a dream, overtaking all the Perth drivers doing 30kmph under the speed limit because of the rain, when suddenly the temp spiked right up and I started getting a lot of hot air out of the vents. I pulled over, popped the bonnet, and could see the coolant bubbling in the expansion tank. I've noticed a small amount of coolant vanishing over time and didn't really know where it was coming from, just kept topping it up (Bad move I know, Rule #1 of P38 ownership, Fix it before you stuff it).
Anyhow, topped up the coolant, let it cool down, drove home with no temp issues. Once home I popped the bonnet to have a look around and noticed a hissing noise. I isolated it down to a plate on the bottom of the throttle body that has 2 coolant pipes running to it, one from the inlet manifold and one to the expansion tank. It was hissing and bubbling, not bad but obviously not good. Seems to be a gasket between the plate and the housing that's leaking, see the picture.
So I whip out the old RAVE manual and "flick" through to the cooling section. I find the section on the "Throttle Housing" which explains that hot coolant is fed through the throttle housing to prevent the throttle body from icing up. Now, I understand what icing is, I know vaguely how it's caused, and have done a bit of reading up on it in regards to my Mini's and their SU Carbs. I have NEVER in the 12 years of Mini ownership, 2 of them in Albany, 10 of them in Perth, had an issue with icing. I can't imagine I'm going to have any with the Rangey.
So ultimately, what I want to know is as a bandaid fix, join these two pipes together so they still circulate and put some caps on the throttle body and everything should be peachy???
Cheers,
Keels
Last edited by WasabiPimpNinja; 18th April 2012 at 07:39 PM. Reason: Swearing
As a temporary fix, joining up the pipes is fine.
You'll probably find the pre-heat housing itself is leaking too (quite common). You may be lucky & just find it's the gasket but it's best to be prepared in case it's not.
Scott
Must be the season as I have today notice a trace of coolant at the same place as your leak. Along the join / Gasket?
I had a quick look at the bottom plate and my thoughts were the chances of undoing the small bolts without snapping or stripping them would be pretty low so thought chemical sealer.
I went to Supercheap to buy a bottle of Rislone liquid copper block seal to add to the coolant but the shelf was empty so have done nothing, the leak is minuscule and I have a low coolant alarm fitted.
As you are going to experiment with yours I will wait for your conclusion.
Please let us know your findings
As a side thought, why are we heating up our air intake area when I thought the best practice was to keep it as cool as possible?
Look what I found for sale without to much looking.......
RANGE ROVER P38 V8 PETROL THROTTLE BODY HEATER REPAIR KIT | eBay
Seems a kit is available from the dealers or aftermarket part number...MGM000010K.
Still cant see why we need to pump hot water round our air intake though. I think I will go the bypass route.
If you can repair it satisfactorily then do so, because the set up as designed will cope with all seasons. If you will always be operating in temperate climes then bypass it and forget about it. Personally I prefer to have everything operating as it was designed to do... if only it would![]()
Am pretty sure I've seen a how-to on rr.net that says it is safe to bypass the throttle body pipes.
Cheers, Paul.
My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com
Ok, throttle plate has been bypassed, all good. A 2" length of small metal pipe and the existing hose clamps made short work of this. Then some idiot snapped the bloody bleed nipple on the radiator trying to bleed the coolant system. I must have trod on a leprachaun this morning I swear.
Anyone dodged this up with success? I really don't feel like swapping out the radiator. Was thinking of tapping the hole, putting in a fitting with some sealant, connecting pipe. Or tapping hole, threading in bolt, sealing it up, cutting top radiator hose over altenator and installing bleed hose there.
Or, should I take this as a sign to overhaul my whole cooling system?
Cheers,
Keels.
Mine has been bypassed for the entire time I've owned it, never had an issue with cooling system because of it. I simply double plugged both lines (throttle body cooling).
I had my radiator overhauled recently, they snapped the bleed nipple on mine, then refused to fix the nipple. I ordered a brand new radiator after a month of 'fixes'. Island 4x4 sell brand new radiators for less than 150£ to your door...
Cheers
Keithy
Hi Keithy, are you sure about that cost from island 4X4 in the uk as I was quoted 170 just for the shipping plus the cost of the radiator.
Can buy new in Sydney for $310 but not sure about shipping costs .
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