THOR Crank Sensor Bosch ERR7354
Cam Shaft position sensor for Rover V8 petrol 4.0 and 4.6 engines.
Range Rover P38 Gems and Thor from vin VA346794.
Discovery 2 All petrol models. ERR6169
Hi all,
Can anyone tell me the Part Nos. of the crankshaft and camshaft sensors for the Thor (2001) engine. I'm trying to get a bit of a spares kit together, and I'm told that these are the only two electrical items that can go that will totally render the p38 useless. Is this also correct?
Rob
Last edited by Robsrod 58; 3rd May 2012 at 12:23 PM. Reason: clarify
THOR Crank Sensor Bosch ERR7354
Cam Shaft position sensor for Rover V8 petrol 4.0 and 4.6 engines.
Range Rover P38 Gems and Thor from vin VA346794.
Discovery 2 All petrol models. ERR6169
There's also a couple of mosfet power transistors ( I think that's what they're called) in the BECM which are no longer available... anywhere.... to my knowledge.... if they go ... it's "... good night Irene" or a new/refurbed BECM
I have a 30L plastic container ...it contains: a water pump, a fuel pump, cam/crankshaft sensors, spare serpentine belt, a coil block, sundry gasket kits and seals for brake calipers, power steering pump etc, a brake modulator repair kit with instructional DVD, a couple of spare UJs and sundry other items.
SWMBO has made some pointed observations about this " ... all bar the kitchen sink' behaviour which is gaily abandoned when we do an extended drive in her 2005 Astra... (there's no room anyway)
My daughter's partner is well used to remote travelling in the Cape York region for his work... he will NOT give up his non-turbo 1994 4.2L diesel Patrol... which has manual everything ...he even carries a compact floor jack instead of the standard bottle variety! In the thousands of km he's done over the years he tells me he's never been stranded....
EDIT: by & large, crank and cam sensors, esp. in the Thor engines are very reliable. Indeed the engine itself, if properly maintained is almost bullet proof as is the 4HP24 transmission. But one must remain vigilant...
Thanks Hoges, thank god I'm buying a trailer!!
I've only had the car for six months and is my daily drive, it had a solid service history and to date the eas system has been overhauled, ( thanks to a lot of help from forum members) and Bilsteins fitted. I intend to change out most of the cooling system, as a precaution. "Graeme Coopers" fitted the gas injection which is fantastic. I also purchased a "ver 5 Hawkeye" and have a touch pad with EAS unlock installed which I keep in the car.
I just received a new brake accumulator and an OEX coolant level kit which I need to fit.
Are there any threads regarding the fitment of these items or should I leave it to the experts.
I'm getting there, only a roof rack, bullbar,winch, new fridge etc and I might be ready to go!!
P.S. Mosfets are generally used for high power handling, as these are no longer available, there is bound to be a rough equivalent out there that would do the job, it maybe in a different package or have slightly different characteristics surely!
Last edited by Robsrod 58; 9th May 2012 at 05:02 PM. Reason: answer
The brake accumulator is a 5 minute job: Press the brake pedal about 15 times to make sure the system is truly depressurised then simply unscrew the old and screw in the new... no bleeding necessary. Check RAVE for fine details.
Have no experience with the OEX coolant level kit, sorry! Sounds like a good idea though.
I have no idea what a mosfet is but a quick google gives a generic part number of BUK202-50Y .
These are for sale via Allibaba in 10`s
Rave, yeh, I got that, but I'm stuffed if I can open it in any sort of logical order. Is it the same as the workshop manual, which I've got, all printed and bound ( thanks luv!)
I've read the speel on Range Rovers.net. Is it really that simple or do I have to bleed the brakes as per manual
Rob
No bleed necessary. I tried to 'pre fill' the acumulator with brake fluid using a small syringe...would accept less than 0.5ml. Wrap a rag around the join when removing the acumulator to mop up any stray fluid. Ensure the o-ring is in place then simply screw the new part into place ...
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