Thread: Range of p38 issues

Originally Posted by Chrisp38

hey guys
Just got my first p38 and so stoked, just like everything I looked around, test drove and checked it all out but after a week a few issues have come up. Alot of them are fairly common but I find there is always alot of different answers.

I really don't know about cars so be basic with me.
The issues are:
- EAS Fault: max 55km. I have read alot about this and believe i need a NANOCOM or something similar to test first. The previous owner put in a backup compresser and manual valves. But the back right is keeps deflating sometimes once a day and other times it lasts a week.

- Stalling on low revs perhaps need new throttle position sensor

- having an issue with passenger heater not working, its blowing ice cold out even when both are set on HI (would the nanocom reset this?)

- Cruise control isn't working but light comes on button and had working occaionally on its first 3 days

- Remote Key isn't working looking for a replacement

- Used gooseneck towbar didn't realise the last owner took it out without me realising. anyone know where the best place to buy one?

Im sorry to the people that have seen all this before, but im not good at this all and looking for some advice.
Im living at the snow this season just in Jindabyne just near Perisher NSW, is someone is in the area or around I would be a great help for some advice.

thanks
Chris

G'day Chris & welcome.

Boy oh boy have you had an intro to the good ol P38 or what, all common of course.

Look, a NANOCOM is a good investment if you can afford one, but the fact that if your not one to work on cars, then it's a bit of an overkill. You can reset most basic faults, especially Airbag faults using an EAS kicker which is a lot cheaper. My advice is first to find the cause of the fault, fix it & then reset the fault. Sounds like the Airbag itself has a leak, or maybe even a damaged seal in the valve block. The Heater seems to be a passenger side blend motor issue most likely, just give your dash a good BANG!! just to make sure the vent flaps aren't stuck. Also check the fuses too which may be the cause, otherwise you'll have to dig into your dash from the left hand side to remove the blend motor. Blend motors usually sell in looms of 3, but upon careful research on ebay you can buy them single, the only thing is that you'll have to re-solder the cable to the new motor. It's realively easy to do, but if you're not confident at all, i'd say take it to a Landy specialist, but whatever you do, do not take to a dealer, or you'll pay the huge dollars and no a NANOCOM won't fix it till the problem has been rectified, and 90% of the time the system will self test once the blend motor has been rectified. The Gooseneck issue unfortunately is a common one, most previous owners try this trick all the time to unsuspecting buyers. But seriously, do not use the gooseneck if you're planning on towing heavy trailers i.e camper trailer, caravans etc. as the goosenecks have a tendency to create excess strain on the chassis causing it to crack. I'd replace it with a proper hayman reese towbar, much better quality also. As far as the stalling is concerned, the throttle positioning sensor will most likely not be the issue, but do test it anyway to be sure, i'm willing to bet that the fuel pump is what is giving you the grieve, does the engine misfire or run rough without power? if so, then the fuel pump will most likely be the culprit. Hope this helps Chris

Oh, and the Cruise control will most likely be a vacuum hose going into the diaphram box or again a fuse that may have blown.


Cheers

Andrew

G'day chrisP38 --welcome!
Re. the EAS...read up a lot about it in RANGEROVERS.NET HOME in the common problems and fixes section .
Also, suggest you download Storey Wilson's EAS unlock software from http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.ph...d=53&Itemid=56
With the EAS Unlock software and the correct cable, you can ;list/clear faults, unlock a hard fault, calibrate the sensors and reset heights etc etc.

You can get the cable from PaulP38a on this forum...he lives close to Canberra. Paul also sells kits of o-rings for replacing the existing o-rings in the EAS valve block...a common source of maintenance often overlooked

PaulP38a also has his own website with lots of detailed pics re. tracing leaks, rebuilding the valveblock.. Storey Wilson's website above also has videos of a few mins each showing exactly how to go about all the common procedures to keep the EAS up to scratch ...looking for leaks, calibration, fault clearing etc

Good luck with it all

Originally Posted by Chrisp38

- having an issue with passenger heater not working, its blowing ice cold out even when both are set on HI (would the nanocom reset this?)

If you're staying in the Snowys, I'd be tempted to unplug the A/C compressor.
It'll log a fault but at least you'll stop the blast of icy air inside the car for the time being.

Chris,
I'm in Canberra and have a Nanocom. If you're on the bumpstops.... you probably don't want to drive it here. But whatever is wrong with your P38, the Nanocom can find it. Including your cold air fault. About the only thing I wouldn't be able to sort out for you is your key. Unless its a key synch fault. If you get a red light when you press lock and unlock, I may be able to force a resych of the key. How does that sound?

Thank you all so much for your help!
Theres alot to think about in all of that, but i believe i should get my own reseting tool. But if that fails i might hit you up if thats ok.

Thanks again for all your heap.. if you have anymore ideas please tell me!!

Hi Chris

You haven't mentioned what year it is, but it doesn't really matter.

The P38 has a heavy reliance on a number of rubber parts that perish over time, particularly the air suspension.

Any time after about 8 - 10 years you simply have to replace a lot of the rubber parts.

My advice is to bite the bullet and put 4 new airbags in straight away, rebuild the valve block with all new rubber O rings and replace the compressor seal. It will cost less than $1000 and depending on how much you do yourself , will teach you a lot about the system.

Otherwise, it's death by a thousand cuts while you discover the problems one by one.

On a seperate topic, check the age of the battery and replace it if there is any doubt that it is less than 2 years old. The P38 needs a good solid battery to function properly. "Strange" things start to happen when the battery is not up to spec.

Good luck with it all

Dave

Originally Posted by adm333

Hi Chris

You haven't mentioned what year it is, but it doesn't really matter.

The P38 has a heavy reliance on a number of rubber parts that perish over time, particularly the air suspension.

Any time after about 8 - 10 years you simply have to replace a lot of the rubber parts.

My advice is to bite the bullet and put 4 new airbags in straight away, rebuild the valve block with all new rubber O rings and replace the compressor seal. It will cost less than $1000 and depending on how much you do yourself , will teach you a lot about the system.

Otherwise, it's death by a thousand cuts while you discover the problems one by one.

On a seperate topic, check the age of the battery and replace it if there is any doubt that it is less than 2 years old. The P38 needs a good solid battery to function properly. "Strange" things start to happen when the battery is not up to spec.

Good luck with it all

Dave

Yeah good point about the Battery. Also pays to get a non-maintenance Battery, as acid spills can erode airlines and wires.....trust me, worth it for a lesser hassle, especially when four wheel driving.