Thread: New oil leak

Hi Paul, I had similar. Oil was dripping off most of the sump-to-block attachment bolts as well as from the sump plug... My initial thought was that the rear main bearing seal was shot but when I removed the sump the area was quite dry...

I suspect that the issue is simply deterioration in the sump gasket. From MY99 on, Rover did away with the sealant approach and use a (Viton?) rubber-type seal which, provided both aluminium surfaces are clean and dry, and the sump is tightened with due attention to order of tightening and torque (17ft lb) should fix the leaks. I should be at that stage of my rebuild late tomorrow...

There's a TSB about several of the bolts needing to be sealed also with "Hylomar" under the flanges but not on the threads (to reduce risk of oil contamination I assume)

The gasket is quite thick and has sturdy (rubber) dowels to locate it fairly securely on the sum before offering the pan up to the underside of the block... may be worth replacing it..

cheers

Originally Posted by Hoges

There's a TSB about several of the bolts needing to be sealed also with "Hylomar" under the flanges but not on the threads (to reduce risk of oil contamination I assume)

there was a TSB about putting sealant on the threads of a couple of bolts that go through into the oil gallery or into the crankcase itself. I shall have to look at the TSBs and find it....

Curses, RAVE won't run....

Originally Posted by p38arover

there was a TSB about putting sealant on the threads of a couple of bolts that go through into the oil gallery or into the crankcase itself. I shall have to look at the TSBs and find it....

Curses, RAVE won't run....

I stand humbled and corrected

from TB 0007 18 Mar 1998

" CAUSE:
On all V8 engines with cross bolted
main bearing caps, the drillings for the
four sump bolts indicated by the arrows
in the illustration, pass through to the
adjacent cross bolt holes.
It has been established that an oil leak
path can develop down the thread of
these sump bolts.
ACTION:
In the event of sump removal or oil
leakage around the heads of the sump
bolts, remove all traces of oil loss and
replace the bolts indicated in the
illustration of the sump underside, with
the bolts detailed in PARTS INFORMATION.
The new bolts incorporate a sealant patch and are fitted to V8 engines from the above VINs. ( prior to Range Rover VA 374947
Discovery VA 738466) VINs after this had the patch (presumably on the thread). When I withdrew my sump bolts they had no sealing patch on them Must have another look!

The respective bolts are numbers 1,2,4 & 5 as per RAVE tightening sequence. So the middle bolts 1&2 ...and, moving toward the front of the engine, the next one along on either side.
·

Thanks Hoges, will look up RAVE now and see if my local LR guy can get the bolts and gasket in for me by the weekend.
If I am going to be stuffing around down there, might as well do it for peace of mind.

Part Number is LSO 100000. These bolts were standard fitment on later (=Thor) engines according to Microcat. I'm thinking that some Loctite 577 thread sealant may do the trick ....!
cheers

I'm at the stage of getting "organised" to put the sump pan back...
With the gasket set I ordered for same there is a plastic bag with 10 so-called "sealing washers" 2 of which are slightly smaller in diamerter. I was at a loss to work out what they're for...

While wiping down the underside of the block to mate with the sump pan I noticed that there is a tiny drop of oil on the flange of each of the cross-drill bolts ...hence the sealing washers I guess... these cross-drilled bolts could also be a source of your oil leaks.

I don't know if it is feasible to remove/replace these one by one and and renew the sealing washers...

It's also interesting that the water pump bolts are metric while the timing cover bolts are 5/16th UNC why do they do this...

You can use it to tell what parts are likely an American item (and will probably be a Buick sourced part) and what parts are ridgey didge pommy...

UPdate: Paul if you can't get the new bolts, use the existing ones with a strip of Loctite 249. It comes in a roll like PTFE plumbers' tape. You can wrap the thread and leave it for later ...acts as a 'patch'. cheers