Thread: EAS height adjustment inhibitor switch

I certainly you are yet to provide pics of dash and underseat wiring

OK. A couple of pictures. The finished result with lights on and behind the switch on the dash. The connection from under the seat is to cut the Purple/Red wire that leads to the relay and then extend the two ends that you have just created up behind the dashboard (around 750mm) to the new switch. To differentiate the icon on the switch from the original I have used a black permanant marker to mask out the centre part of the circle.
I shoul also add that the only draw back of this switch is that if the switch is not in the on position (indicator light shows this) a warning is displayed on the dashboard. The error disappears immediately when you push the button.

Gary

Scotchloks !!

Originally Posted by Scouse

Scotchloks !!

You seem angry, you disapprove? Please explain

So with the standard range rover switches is the light on when the circuit is broken (eas off) or on when the eas is on? Reason I ask is that a normal DC switch has the light come on when power is running through it so 99% the light is on which to me is annoying. I tried wiring the switch up but unfortunately the switch leaked and never really broke the circuit completely...

So basically I am after a switch or a way to make the light turn on when the eas is off. Hoping the standard range rover switches will do this. Are they just a 3 pin switch? But I guess the lights in the standard switches are quite tame and not as bad as my bright red rocker switch.

Edit: I think "switch is not in the on position (indicator light shows this)" means the light is on when the switch is NOT on?? So light on when eas is off?

Originally Posted by mtb_gary

I've just finished installing an EAS height adjustment inhibitor switch. As the car is used as a weekender the suspension would drop down almost to bump stops over the period of the week as the car kept trying to level itself. My solution to date has been to remove the relay from under the passenger seat, but there had to be a more elegant way that was in keeping with the layout of the car.
The solution was to purchase a second hand EAS inhibitor switch and plug from the wreckers (Linn Rover, thank you Vicky) for $6, along with a few cm of the original wire hanging off the plug and some wire that I had in the shed. Some minor modifications to the wiring on the plug and half a dozen connectors and I now have an EAS switch to stop any changes in height even when parked, along with indicator light to show whether it is active and back lighting the same as the other switches. The switch is positioned in what was a blank spot on the centre dash to the left of the cruise control on/off switch. Because the switch is from the P38 it does not look out of place on the dash. Perfect for what I was trying to achieve, no more sliding passenger seat forward to remove the relay during the week. It is now simply a case of push the switch .

Could you not have wired terminal 4 of the EAS relay which has a permanent 12V supply to a switched supply instead so that the suspension is deactivated as soon as the ignition is switched off?

Originally Posted by zhoey

Could you not have wired terminal 4 of the EAS relay which has a permanent 12V supply to a switched supply instead so that the suspension is deactivated as soon as the ignition is switched off?

Zhoey, yes you are correct, the power source could be wired directly to the ignition. But connecting via the ignition would not allow selective disabling eg when going through water crossings.
Gary