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10th December 2012, 09:30 PM
#11
As always a great response and much appreciate all the support!
I did some diagnosis this evening (a lot of observations and playing with valves) and have come up with a potential theory using all your info.
Firstly to describe my EAS bypass kit: It's the Faskit one, it has 5 bypass valves, 4 sit in between the bags and valve block. When 'open' the path is normal between the valve block and the bag. When 'closed' the valve block line is shut off and the bag is connected directly to a schrader valve so it can be pumped independently. The 5th sits in the outlet of the pump, with a pressure gauge, this reads the outlet of the pump, so as it pumps up a bag you can see what it gets too, then you can see the pump rising to 140psi before the pump shuts off and the gauge registers 0 (bit pointless as it measures between the outlet and valve block). This also has a bypass and a schreder valve that enables the compressor to be used independently, connecting to each of the bags... Hope this makes sense? I think I will connect the 5th to the tank instead...
My theory: The rear left is being pumped up when the pump is trying to fill the tank, via an internal leak or a jammed open valve. Also my kit must have a leak on the rear left bypass valve as with it closed it continues to adjust this wheel height, the others can be shut off with the bypass ( I will be speaking to the supplier). I checked my plumbing of the kit, blowing through the tubes, all good. The system gets confused, it is trying to get the tank up to pressure, once full it realises the rear left is high, so it releases pressure to get it down, then has to refill the tank, but finds pressure is dropped as it's linked to the rear left... Possibly, at the weekend when I released the tank pressure (I usually use the RSW software that does it in a slow controlled way) I just pulled the tank line to the valve block, maybe this has blown one of the internal seals. I believe the rear left is the 1st to see airpressure in the system from the inlet. Or the rear left valve is stuck open, strange that I never touched it. When it adjusts the rear left back down, the tank pressure drops too. The block will be coming out again tomorrow and I'll report back. Anyone else think this makes sense?
Really appreciate all the suggestions and help, great community on here!
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10th December 2012, 11:33 PM
#12
That all makes sense to me. You are getting close I reckon.
Only one thing for it... Pull block and open it up again. Use Paul's instructions they are GOLD. The photos can help identify if something is in the wrong spot.
I still think it could be that it just doesn't like you. Probably something to do with sticking that headrest in the wrong way!!! Bring it back to my place when you've had enough of it my "pretty pig" could do with a mate.
Hoo-Roo,
Dave.
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11th December 2012, 08:07 AM
#13
In the event you do have a stuck valve make sure you inspect the rubber bits on the top and bottom of the stem (not just the "o" rings). The top should be flush with the top of the stem and the base rubber should be flattish and without indentations. If the top rubber is misaligned, myself and others have carefully superglued them back in place. The bottom rubber can be sanded back with emery paper or around 2000 grade wet and dry. Using a drill press for this would be ideal but can be done by hand with similar effect.
Personally, with a stuck valve, I have always been thrown a hard fault when it occured, so I am leaning towards another cause.
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11th December 2012, 10:59 PM
#14
Progress so far, or lack of..
Took out the valve block and took off the bottom two valves (front right and back left). Nothing obviously wrong, carefully re-seated all the o-rings just in case. Removed the two removable blocks, one connects the inlet of the compressor/ diaphragm valve and the exhaust to the main block, the other sits at the other end with the pressure switch, all the o rings looked absolutely fine. I did not touch any of these to cause the problem so that is logical.
Reconnected it all back up, exactly the same behavior.
I then switched the the two rear height sensors over, problem persisted.
Something else I have noticed, it only seems to do it while in park. When I'm driving a long or at lights in gear, all appears fine. Left it is gear and had a look, seemed fine.
It leading towards me thinking it must be a control issue, leaving the rear left valve open when the tank fills.
Sooo, onto the next. After some thinking on my way home (I did this in my work carpark), I'm next going to the 'black box' that you pull out to disable the EAS ECU. When the problem started was after the 1st time it had been pulled out, so makes sense. I'll remove the covers and see if the wires look disrupted. Then it will be the driver, DT-P38, how easy is this spare one to get hold of? Would be extremely useful 
Certainly getting to know the system pretty well and getting pretty swift at pulling it apart!
Not one error message has been generated during all of this.
Suggestions always welcome
Will report back with findings
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12th December 2012, 02:12 PM
#15
Had a quick look at the wiring under the seat and inspected the 'Black box' that I now know to be the timing relay. All looked OK, cover did come off the timing relay rather easily to reveal the circuit board but all the solders were in tact with no cross overs. Surely the timing relay cannot have much effect?
Have read that a blocked exhaust silencer can do strange things, will try without it after work, noticed mine was very hard to blow through yesterday and soaking in water wouldn't unblock it..
Possibly the driver pack then, anyone got one in the Melbourne area I could try in return for cold beer please?
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12th December 2012, 10:15 PM
#16
Hi UK_P38,
Correct me if i'm wrong but from my understanding you did not have this issue prior to dissasembly of valve block ???
So if that is true then it would not make sense for it to be a sensor or driver box.
It sounds to me more likely something to do with solenoid that may have been dissasembled and possibly sticking open. Did you only lube correct orings! as some should not be lubed at all. This is where Paul (Hard Range) instructions are invaluable in rebuild procedure. Worth another look I think.
Hope you get it sorted soon, need to get trip happening, starting to get withdrawal symptoms!
Cheers, Martin
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12th December 2012, 10:16 PM
#17
Don't have an EAS driver handy now. Anyone have ideas about where one may be waiting for use?
Hoo-Roo,
Dave.
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12th December 2012, 10:17 PM
#18
Only thing that seems a bit strange though, is that no faults or messages popping up!
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12th December 2012, 10:47 PM
#19
in one reply you mention the bottom 2 valves as being FR, RL. i think that is wrong. i seem to remember they were FL, RR. i still think you may have the hoses in the wrong holes.
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13th December 2012, 10:31 PM
#20
Does anyone know Is there an EAS fault finding guide/check list like the one on RR.net for HEVAC?
Hoo-Roo,
Dave.
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