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Thread: Troubleshooting Summer Overheating

  1. #11
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    Feb 2010
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    I live in north QLD and regularly go 4wding, never had a problem with my temps, even when idling in the very hot bush land. The revs creep up a bit when she's warm but the temp never gets past half.

    I run red coolant, wonder if coolant type has anything to do with it?

    I've also bypassed my heater core - no need for heating up north!

  2. #12
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    I'm running Red Coolant also.
    I need my Heater Core... gets down to below 0 up in the Mountains in Winter

  3. #13
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    What concentration are you running the coolant in?

  4. #14
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    To be honest I'm not certain... Coolant was done by my Mechanic after we replaced the Radiator/VC/Fan last week when we had the explosion. They are not incomptetent so I assume its as described.

  5. #15
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    Maybe drop a half a bucket outta the radiator and double check the strength, if its a light red cordial I'd be buying some concentrate and giving it an extra shot!

    As I said, mine will idle in the bush on a 45 degree day and still come back for more! No mods to my cooling system other than the heater core bypass...

  6. #16
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    Apr 2009
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    Crafers West South Australia
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    Pure water has a higher heat carrying capacity (specific heat) than any coolant mix. If you are running anti freeze the engine will run hotter. Reducing the amount of inhibitor solution will help cooling more than increasing the amount. I strongly suggest you contact your mechanic before changing the mix, it's not worth the risk of damage if you get the wrong concentration.

  7. #17
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    May 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Pure water has a higher heat carrying capacity (specific heat) than any coolant mix. If you are running anti freeze the engine will run hotter. Reducing the amount of inhibitor solution will help cooling more than increasing the amount. I strongly suggest you contact your mechanic before changing the mix, it's not worth the risk of damage if you get the wrong concentration.
    And that's why I asked the question! Along the lines of making sure its not too highly concentrated. Once upon a time I thought stronger the better. One week of it getting up the gauge frequently and it got changed again, at the correct dilution and bingo, perfect again.

  8. #18
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    Sep 2008
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    Poland (I kid you not)
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    Hi Heath - happy new year mate.

    Have you thought about getting a cooling system pressure flush and clean out? I've heard that some blocks retain some casting sand and it plays havoc with the cooling system. You can get it done for about $120 from a proper radiator place.

    Cheers,

    Jonathan

  9. #19
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    It's been flush and cleaned a couple of times now...
    Car operates great, even in 40 Degree Days as long as I'm moving.

    As soon as I'm stationary or slow (less than 50kmh) and the AC is on I'm in all sorts of trouble.

    I'll ask an "understanding" sort of question now... Does the AC Fluid Level have any impact on how "Hard" the system has to work... or does it simply result in a higher temperature inside the cabin.

    I'm just not 110% certain the AC guys got the system filled correctly last time when I changed the Receiver Drier and Expansion Valve because it was cold, and they couldn't get the AC to Switch on the perform a System Charge...

    Regards
    Heath

  10. #20
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    Feb 2010
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    Do your revs drop much or does the engine feel like its working hard at idle with the air con on?

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