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Thread: ABS pump noisy

  1. #1
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    ABS pump noisy

    My ABS pump is making a loud whining noise, a bit like a hydraulic pump with a bad bearing

    Reading rangerovers.net, it seems if you can hear it through the firewall, then the end may be nigh !

    I was wondering what my options are for buying a replacement unit. Direct from the UK, local suppliers, genuine ?

    Thanks in advance

  2. #2
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    Might be worth changing the ABS Accumulator first to see if it fixes the problem. Can be got at a reasonable price from one of the usual UK suppliers like p38spares, island4x4, DLS or Britishparts.

    Cheers, Paul.
    My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com

  3. #3
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    also, check the fluid flow from the reservoir is not blocked or too thick to run down to the pump.

  4. #4
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    Thanks guys, i have a mate who drives a pirtek van and was the local emergency roadside mechanic in this area for many years.

    We will be changing all the fluids very soon including the brake fluid and we will check what we can.

    Hopefully it won't turn into a hand grenade anytime soon

  5. #5
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    Air in the hydraulic system can also make a lot of noise when the ABS Accumulator is charging up to pressure. Be sure to follow RAVE exactly when bleeding the system.
    MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
    2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
    2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveFarmer View Post
    Thanks guys, i have a mate who drives a pirtek van and was the local emergency roadside mechanic in this area for many years.
    Grab a bunch of 6mm (not 1/4") air line and fittings off him for the EAS as well. Can be really useful for making your own EAS Emergency Bypass Kit and other useful bits like pressure gauges and an on-board air supply.
    My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com

  7. #7
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    The Car has an emergency bypass kit already fitted, but without isolation valves.

    Is it necessary to have isolation valves since there are non-return valves in the system as well?

    I had a look at the mod on rangeorvers.net which added a pressure gauge and an air outlet, i reckon i will be adding that soon.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveFarmer View Post
    The Car has an emergency bypass kit already fitted, but without isolation valves.

    Is it necessary to have isolation valves since there are non-return valves in the system as well?

    I had a look at the mod on rangeorvers.net which added a pressure gauge and an air outlet, i reckon i will be adding that soon.
    Absolutely Steve... the NRV's in the Valve Block have naught to do with the air lines to the individual air springs. The reason you might put isolation valves in to the EAS is to enable you to stop the valve block form letting air in/out of the 4 air springs.

    When we (Hard Range) were still selling the EAS Emergency Bypass Kit, we could not find reasonably priced and reliable isolation valves for the 5 lines (air springs plus tank). Instead, we included some extra straight-though fittings that let you remove the tee-pieces and bypass the valve block completely in the event that it sh*t itself.

    Does the kit you refer to look anything like this perhaps?
    My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com

  9. #9
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    I like the look of your setup Paul

    Here is a pic of what is in mine between the aircleaner and the EAS box.

    I think in front of the aircleaner is a much better spot.

    I assume the 5th valve is connected to line 6 ?


  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveFarmer View Post
    I assume the 5th valve is connected to line 6 ?
    yep, the middle port attaches to line 6 and the gauge monitors pressure in the tank.
    My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com

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