Thread: unlock code ?

Hi Robert - there are two types of "unlock codes".

First is the Emergency Key Access (EKA) code that you can use if the key fob will no longer synch with the car. It should be on a card in the original owners handbook folder. Many P38's will no longer have the card or handbook so your option is to go back to Land Rover to get them to issue it to you.

The other code is the immobilisation/security code between the Engine Management System (EMS) and the BeCM. If these get out of synch you can either:
Manually rewrite the code using a FaultMate or Nanocom, or;
use a SynchMate tool from Blackbox Solutions to automatically rewrite it for you.

Cheers, Paul.

Thanks Paul.
I will look thru the hanbook folder and paper bits that are in the car. I will also ask The Bro what he knows about it, probably nothing !!!
That other thing that you mention must be the BECM sync mate thingy that I saw on youtube.
I wonder how often you would ever need one of those.

If I'm ever down your way ill have to pop in and say g'day and show you a few P38 tricks.

My faultmate is the best investment I've ever made - although in nearly 4 years of P38 ownership I have never actually used it in anger. Even when I popped a factory Dunlop airbag in the middle of 90km of low range driving at Maytown.

But if I do need to use it - it's there.

If you ever run into dramas it'll only cost a few bucks to ascertain a license to activate the ability to tap into your P38's brain and I'm on a casual working roster at the moment. That said, Ken at TJM in mackay is a Landy nut and can probably help you out if you come into dramas. His brother owns a P38 up here in Townsville.

Cheers mate
Keithy

Good points Keithy - I am a big fan of the FaultMate MSV-2 Extreme and the Nanocom Evolution, both available from Blackbox Solutions in Cyprus.
I have both, and mainly use the Nanocom Evolution these days as it is handy to keep in the glove box. The FaultMate MSV-2 Extreme was a great bit of kit, and still is, although the Nanocom is better value for money now as it is multi-vehicle by default.
Cheaper option for EMS/BeCM re-synch is the Sync-Mate, also from BBS. At around $125 plus delivery, you only have to use it once for it to pay for itself.
...and if anyone is wondering, no I don't sell BBS stuff any more

Cheers, Paul.

Thanks.
Perhaps you could advise me.
I have only been driving this thing for a couple of weeks although I have been involved withit for sometime and bought a few bits from Hardrange, thanks Paul.
Anyway coming home the other day it went down to the bump stops, I cleared the faults and got it sorted. Other times, driving along it will flash the 4 lights and register a fault, so I have to quickly clear the faults with the little Blackbox thingy ( thanks Paul ) before it goes down.
When left parked for a few days it will settle down to the bump stops. Just starting it and trying to clear the faults doesn't work. I have to raise the car using the bypass kit ( thanks Paul ) and then it will allow me to clear the faults and all looks good.
On Sunday I set the height to standard and then isolated the EAS by removing the black timer thingy under the passenger seat.
It hasn't budget, still holding air and height just like a bought one.
Now, the air doesn't seem to be going past the valve block and lowering all four corners like it does when it is not isolated. I ask myself where could the fault be ?
Would a Faultmate or Nanacom thingy tell me ?

Thanks.

Robert.

Great starting point Robert. Appears that your EAS is sealed tighter than the proverbial fish's ..... as long as the EAS Delay Timer is removed (the black thingy under the front passenger seat).

This tells me your problem is definitely electrical/logic related. Most probably due to the EAS Delay Timer is my guess, as I know several people who have had similar problems in the past 12 months and replacing the EAS Delay Timer solved it.

Now, it could also be the Driver Unit (black thingy bolted on to side of the Valve Block) as it controls the solenoids, upon instruction from the EAS ECU under the passenger seat.

My suggested process of elimination is to find a P38 mate who is prepared to loan his/her working EAS Delay Timer to see if it solves your problem. If it doesn't, move on to the Driver Unit. At least you will know what bit you need to replace.

I guess dodgy height sensors could also cause intermittent and false readings which may cause the EAS to self-level and lower itself, but my money is still on the EAS Delay Timer.

I am also a bit concerned that the compressor is worn if it is not lifting the EAS quickly. Before you start the car, did you check the pressure in the tank on the Emergency Bypass Kit? Ideally, the pressure should still be 100+psi after a few days of sitting idle, allowing for expansion/contraction and/or a small leak somewhere such as fittings or gauge.

Even from an empty tank, it should take 6-8 minutes to build up enough pressure to lift the car to standard height. I run the compressor for about 5 minutes with the door open to prevent levelling, close the door, let it come up a bit and watch the pressure drop to less than 80-100psi, close the door and wait a few more minutes.

Might be time to change the seal on the compressor piston if yours is taking too long to raise up.

Nanocom or FaultMate is not going to tell you anything more about your EAS than the EAS Unlock Cable you already have does.

Cheers, Paul.

Thanks Paul.
I think that I might get a new delay timer to start with, this one is marked 3-98 so its getting on abit. If that doesn't fix the prolem we can look into the other on the valve block that you mentioned. I doubt that they are very expensive.
With regard to the pressure in the tank. There seems to be plenty at all times. The Bro commented that it is just off the high scale and wondered if that is a little problem. I dont want to think it is just yet because what we want is AIR, eh.

Robert.

Originally Posted by olbod

Thanks Paul.
I think that I might get a new delay timer to start with, this one is marked 3-98 so its getting on abit. If that doesn't fix the prolem we can look into the other on the valve block that you mentioned. I doubt that they are very expensive.

I took a punt and bought a couple of 2nd hand EAS Delay Timers off eBay. Think they cost about $25 each. I know at least one of them works as I loaned it to a local guy when he was troubleshooting his EAS.
Cheapest new EAS Driver Unit I have seen was around $400.

Originally Posted by olbod

With regard to the pressure in the tank. There seems to be plenty at all times. The Bro commented that it is just off the high scale and wondered if that is a little problem. I dont want to think it is just yet because what we want is AIR, eh.

Yeah, pretty common for the gauge to read just over 150psi. In retrospect, we should have fitted the EBK's with 200psi gauges.