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Thread: Over heated engine - NOW WHAT - your advice please

  1. #11
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    The guy oppoite bunning is posibly Wayne Smith, he's a god when it come to pretty much anything a lomg a your pocket are deep and you're not on a time budget. 500cc GP bikes, merlins, pretty much anything.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by clubagreenie View Post
    The guy oppoite bunning is posibly Wayne Smith, he's a god when it come to pretty much anything a lomg a your pocket are deep and you're not on a time budget. 500cc GP bikes, merlins, pretty much anything.
    Where about's this Wayne Smith Clubagreenie?

  3. #13
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    The guy is at Northmead. I thought he was good value at $110 per bank.and I dropped them to him on Saturday morning and got them back that afternoon. Only thing was they weren't cleaned up but that didn't take me long to do when I got them back home. I reckon he is good value.

  4. #14
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    Must have caught him on a good day. I've been there with 2 years of research and planing for an engine build and in <30 seconds he can debunk it all and turn around and come up with something better.

    Bunnings Nth Parra, on Nth rocks Rd, directly opposite the driveway. Small inconspicuous sign saying Smith Engine Research. The usual, grungy, crap everywhere brilliance.

  5. #15
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    Heads off

    Today finally got the heads off. Next to the Hawkesbury surrounded by smoke , quite some place to work.
    As it was the first time I took Cyl. Heads off I noticed something strange , which perhaps to the more experienced is normal? :
    Most bolts came loose very easy. With a normal large bracket ( 350mm ) on the socket it took reasonable force but not as much as I had expected. I'm fairly strong but a light weight ( 1870 mm tall and only 76 kg. ) so expected a real fight with each bolt , not so... except the driver side head where the inner most front and rear bolts took a lot of screaming added to my 59 year old muscles.
    I checked flatness of both heads with a new ruler , both sort of hollow in the middle when looked at with the ruler diagonally, I'd say about 0.5 mm at the most. All the cylinder sleeves seem OK , perhaps a micro tad up but only able to feel with finger nail, not visible.
    Got the new heads ready , but wonder if I should replace cam shaft ?
    Attached a bunch of photos for your's to comment on.
    Thanks again:
    J.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #16
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    And some more photos to add

    And some more photos to add to previous post. thx.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #17
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    Have you cleaned the pistons down? That's a clean cylinder!

    As for the cam, if you can't wipe those marks off with your finger, I'd suggest its been real hot! Is your oil pump ok?

    I'm not an engineer or an expert though!

    Good luck mate!

  8. #18
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    Suggest you get the heads crack tested and the block hardness tested. That's one of the lessons I've leant from buying 2nd hand engine parts.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keithy P38 View Post
    Have you cleaned the pistons down? That's a clean cylinder!

    As for the cam, if you can't wipe those marks off with your finger, I'd suggest its been real hot! Is your oil pump ok?

    I'm not an engineer or an expert though!

    Good luck mate!
    I've seen tons of cams look like that, it's a consequence of the lifter faces going concave with wear. Nothing special, just old age, best replaced.

    As for flatness, feeler gauges under a ground edge of a steel straight edge will tell you if the block needs decked. Nice blowout mark into the water jacket! The heads most certainly will need a closer look by a machine shop. The liners that I've seen loosened tend to drop around 1mm, so if yours are all the same then they're probably OK.

  10. #20
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    Have a look at Post #18 onwards Head Gasket Time... for pics


    Definitely new cam.
    With some judicious handling and moving stuff out of the way there's just enough room to slip a new cam in place without removing the engine. You need to be VERY careful not to score the bearings however.

    The lobes in your photos are worn and seem chipped at the edges. New part number is ERR5250 ...about $190 from Karcraft. No point using a new cam if you don't put in new followers ERC4949 (about $10 ea). Should also put in new rockers.

    I will bet also that your chain and sprocket wheels need replacing also. see pics above..that was only 140,000km!

    The preload on the tappets/followers is critical. given that the pushrods are not adjustable you have only two real options: Drill out the holes in the head where the push rods go through to accept larger diameter adjustable pushrods... or... shim the rocker posts (all the same!!!) so that the average preload is within specs.

    These (preload) measurements are going to depend on the amount skimmed off the heads as well as the thickness of the headgasket. I used an Elring composite head gasket and tightened the heads only to 65-70 ft lbs in 4 stages. however in saying this, I also spent the money and bought a set of API head studs from the USA (Summit Racing) instead of TTY head bolts, though I am sure they would be OK if properly installed.

    Have a look at PaulP38a 's webpage on his 'engine refresh' .

    I bought the hydraulic lifters, solid steel rockers and a shim set from turner engineering in the UK. New chain and sprockets etc and camshaft plus top end overhaul gasket set (Elring) from Karcraft.

    Breaking in the camshaft has to be done properly... you can screw it up in the first 45 seconds you start the engione if you don't do it properly...forgive me if you already know this. I slathered the whole lot in assembly lube and filled the car with running-in oil I got from Repco (high phosphorus content) which U used for the first 1,000km then refilled with Magnatec 15-40.

    there's a lot of good advice on the turner engineering website.

    sorry for the jumbled thoughts...yell out if you have a question
    MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
    2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
    2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)

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