Thread: EAS Fault... woohoo, loving the p38 experience...

Try whipping out the EAS delay timer under the passenger seat. And then pumping the system up manually. That will disable the EAS ECU. It may work to get you mobile again.

If there is a serious leak in the valve block, it will quickly deflate. So you would need to blank off the outlets/inlets to/from the air bags at the valve block.

Hi Cal,

The EAS is just introducing itself to you, you'll get to know each other really well eventually.

The generic OBD code reset tools won't be able to 'talk' with the EAS controller but you can get a cable from eBay and some free software for a laptop that can reset faults, diagnose problems and even reset and recalibrate the sensors.

Range Rover P38 EAS USB Suspension Diagnostic Cable Tool | eBay

Range Rover P38a - EAS Unlock Suite


Another option is the Nanocom Evo which is a great piece of kit to have in your P38 but its not cheap.



Removal of the EAS Delay Timer relay will cut off the control signals to the valve block and all valves will stay closed, if there are no leaks then your airbags will stay where they are.

Manual inflation can be done with a 'T' piece in the 6mm air line from the valve block to the bag, usually with a Schrader valve on the 'T', again if there's a leak this won't help. Another option is to remove the air lines from the valve block and push on a schrader valve to manually inflate the bags, this will bypass the valve bloc completely for that bag.
A short length of 6mm air line with a schrader valve on one end could also be used close to the air bag itself but you'd have to pull out the existing line first.
Be careful pulling any air hose if there's pressure in the system, it drops the bags very fast and you could lose a body part if its trapped between wheel and bodywork.


If the air tank is empty and compressor not running it may be a wiring problem or a compressor fault, if the piston seal is gone or there's a leak the compressor will run but not pressurize the tank till it overheats and then shuts off, it could also be a valve block fault or even a sensor fault, you really need to see the diagnostic output to troubleshoot this.

Hi Cal,

All good advice here.

From the sounds of it, you may have a suspect valve block which is making the compressor work it's arse off and then the overheat cutoff stops it.

If it stays up with the relay removed and the bypass pumped up, then the valve block is the main suspect for sure.

You may have a hole in a bag as well, does one corner go down faster?

Soapy water in a spray bottle is your friend when looking for leaks around the valve block.

Also check around the drier, and even the connection into the tank under the car.

Good luck
Steve

Cal.. All excellent advice above: FWIW also: Remedying an external leak on the valve block can sometimes be as simple as reseating the 6mm high pressure nylon tubing. Deflate the system, press on the collet and withdraw the nylon tube. Remove about 5mm from the end. Very important you cut it "square". Then with a pencil sharpener, cut a very slight chamfer on the end of the tube and carefully insert it back into the collet. Push slowly and you should feel resistance against the first o-ring...push through both o-rings and it's seated. If it's still leaking then the o-rings require replacement. There's oodles of info here and on rangerovers.net on refurbing the valve block with new o-rings.

If the eas delay timer is removed and all four corners a time are deflating then logic saus it sounds like the exhaust valve isn't seated properly. I'd start there with a bit of soapy water. Also take housing off and squirt around the stem - took me 6 goes to get my block.to work properly - Eas is a bit like manic depression: up one minute, down the next ;-)

"...Eas is a bit like manic depression: up one minute, down the next ;-)...."



Been there-Done That...

First thing, get some Schraeder valves and adapters to 6mm airline Plus a length of line. You need a set for each bag. Pull the car's airline-to-each bag out and replace with this cheapie self-rescue. Inflate by whatever tyre pump you've got. Even with a good foot-pump.

Second stage is add the T piece, which means it stays connected, and

Third stage is to add a lock-off (inline) tap, so that the self-rescue can isolate each bag from the valvle block, in case the valve block is faulty...

Your cheapest Electronic Diagnostic route is the EAS 'Kicker' from here:-
https://blackbox-solutions.com/shop/

Bear in mind that it only does the air suspension. Nothing else.


In the mean time, deflate your tyres down as far as you reckon is safe...and quietly drive home/wherever like that.....:eek:

JYou have my sympathies.....

'95 CLASSIC Vogue SE with working EAS...

Range Rover P 38 Suspension Valve Block New | eBay

If you don't want to refurb the block, how about a new one?

Trust me, you don't want one like this,,,,
95 02 Range Rover P38 Electronic Air Suspension Valve Block Pump Air Ride EAS | eBay

- check the co$t of $hipping !