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Thread: damn starter motor

  1. 9th April 2014, 03:17 PM #11
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    Scouse
    Scouse is offline OldBushie Gold Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    I seem to recall something about that in order to reduce drive by noise levels - as was the reason for dual exhausts on later cars.
    No P38s were sold here with a dual exhaust so it may be a European reg.
    Scott
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  2. 9th April 2014, 04:19 PM #12
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    p38arover
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    Could be, Scott.

    I remember Wayne writing this:

    Twin exhaust system on a p38
    Ron B.
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    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



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  3. 9th April 2014, 05:18 PM #13
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    benji
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    I had a terrible time with the top bolt on my 93. The thread was corroded and I'd rounded the bolt. Dad got it undone by hammering a larger imperial allen keyin there, and pouring boiling water down some pipe onto the nut for at least half an hour. Man was I relieved! !!

    When I had everything apart in the p38 I took both state bolts out and put antisieze on them.
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  4. 9th April 2014, 05:23 PM #14
    TheTree
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    Hi

    A good selection of wobble bars helps as well

    Steve
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  5. 14th April 2014, 06:06 PM #15
    redandy3575
    redandy3575 is offline Master
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    Did you guys read my transmission removal thread i had the same issue.

    I tell ya, if i find the guy that invented loctite, i will fair and squarly thump him one. Its the worst invention ever, trying undo a bolt is an absolute nightmare, and there's no need for it, you do not need to glue bolts. If anything, WD40 is the go.
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  6. 14th April 2014, 06:29 PM #16
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    mtb_gary
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    They use the blue Loctite on the Panhard rod bolts. Even when you "crack" the seal they are still near on impossible to remove. The nut and bolt are even warm from the friction when removed! I much prefer Nylok nuts. Redandy3575, when you've finished with Mr Loctite, pass him over I'll take over round 2 .

    Gary
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