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Thread: damn starter motor

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    I seem to recall something about that in order to reduce drive by noise levels - as was the reason for dual exhausts on later cars.
    No P38s were sold here with a dual exhaust so it may be a European reg.
    Scott

  2. #12
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    p38arover is offline Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
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    Could be, Scott.

    I remember Wayne writing this:

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range...ml#post1590235
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  3. #13
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    I had a terrible time with the top bolt on my 93. The thread was corroded and I'd rounded the bolt. Dad got it undone by hammering a larger imperial allen keyin there, and pouring boiling water down some pipe onto the nut for at least half an hour. Man was I relieved! !!

    When I had everything apart in the p38 I took both state bolts out and put antisieze on them.

  4. #14
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    Hi

    A good selection of wobble bars helps as well

    Steve

  5. #15
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    Did you guys read my transmission removal thread i had the same issue.

    I tell ya, if i find the guy that invented loctite, i will fair and squarly thump him one. Its the worst invention ever, trying undo a bolt is an absolute nightmare, and there's no need for it, you do not need to glue bolts. If anything, WD40 is the go.

  6. #16
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    They use the blue Loctite on the Panhard rod bolts. Even when you "crack" the seal they are still near on impossible to remove. The nut and bolt are even warm from the friction when removed! I much prefer Nylok nuts. Redandy3575, when you've finished with Mr Loctite, pass him over I'll take over round 2 .

    Gary

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