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Thread: The basics for P38A ownership

  1. #1
    4X4V8 Guest

    The basics for P38A ownership

    I am not far away from (finally) buying a P38A.

    I am trying to get my head around what is required for relatively hassle-free ownership.

    I was thinking:

    A Nanocom;
    Schreider valves in the EAS as documented in various locations;
    What else?

    I want to build a vehicle that I can tow a caravan anywhere in Australia and fix the RR as required on the road.

  2. #2
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    Top of mind jobs to establish a baseline would be:

    EAS overhaul, which depending on its current state could include new air springs, valve block rebuild and compressor rebuild.

    I'd change all fluids and filters. Ideally you'd want replace all hoses and belts to. New battery. Grease the UJs. Check the alternator. I'd fit an extra coolant - temp or level or both. I'd also recommend a EAS isolation switch on the delay timer under the passenger seat.

    Steve farmer on here has a link to his list of jobs completed so far. Check it out. It'll provide a pretty thorough list of things to tick off.

  3. #3
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    what size caravan? Lest I be offered up as sacrifice ... you might be better off towing with a D2 V8
    MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
    2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
    2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)

  4. #4
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    Hoges - wash your mouth out with soap!

    My advice would be to buy time.

    Buy a well serviced P38, get to know it, then make everything new (or as-new). Then take one front and rear bag as spares, a bypass kit is advised (but not essential - I've got one but it's not fitted after 5yrs of P38 ownership), make sure you have a good alternator and battery, then tow until you run out of fuel or funds (whichever occurs first).

    Number 1 P38 rule is voltage.

    Number 2 P38 rule is air (operation/condition and pressure).

    Number 3 P38 rule is cooling system.

    Number 4 P38 rule is Drive!

    Cheers
    Keithy

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Hi

    This page

    Service Programme

    and this page

    Steve's P38A Range Rover Project

    May be of some help

    Steve

  6. #6
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    All that is already mentioned

    I'd check for things like whining differentials, oil leaks at the wheel bearings, coolant leaks under dash ( could be the dreaded o-rings ). Check hi and low range in case the vehicle hasn't seen dirt. Most important of all, ask what type of oil has been used. A caring owner should know.

  7. #7
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    It'll be a well cared for example if the headlight wash wiper blades are in good condition (assuming HSE). And the handbrake gator isn't cracked i.e. its been replaced. All you need to look for.

  8. #8
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    There are two versions of the P38a.. those often referred to as a "GEMS" model (General Engine Management System) and those (post mid 1999) known as the "Thor" (Bosch) version. The switch over was VIN....Xa410481(Last of the GEMS) ....Xa410482 (first of the Bosch). This reflected the "upgrade" of the V8 engine (not more power)... accompanied by 4-pin diffs, a revised WABCO ABS system, a revised ZF gearbox (4HP24) and sundry other "improvements".

    Given their age, you would probably do better to find a later model (1999-2002). The 2001/2002 run-out models appear to have been imported with the high compression engines (9.1:1) which are somewhat more sprightly than the low compression versions (8.37:1).

    Some later model D2s came with the high compression 4.6 V8. Also the D2 has more effective room in the back for storing stuff. The classic look of the Rangie with its sloping tail gate is "nice" but somewhat impractical for packing and installing drawer systems etc.

    With a late model D2 you may have a better power to weight ratio which will assist in the towing department.

    as for other issues I agree with the previous posters
    MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
    2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
    2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)

  9. #9
    4X4V8 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Hoges View Post
    There are two versions of the P38a.. those often referred to as a "GEMS" model (General Engine Management System) and those (post mid 1999) known as the "Thor" (Bosch) version. The switch over was VIN....Xa410481(Last of the GEMS) ....Xa410482 (first of the Bosch). This reflected the "upgrade" of the V8 engine (not more power)... accompanied by 4-pin diffs, a revised WABCO ABS system, a revised ZF gearbox (4HP24) and sundry other "improvements".

    Given their age, you would probably do better to find a later model (1999-2002). The 2001/2002 run-out models appear to have been imported with the high compression engines (9.1:1) which are somewhat more sprightly than the low compression versions (8.37:1).

    Some later model D2s came with the high compression 4.6 V8. Also the D2 has more effective room in the back for storing stuff. The classic look of the Rangie with its sloping tail gate is "nice" but somewhat impractical for packing and installing drawer systems etc.

    With a late model D2 you may have a better power to weight ratio which will assist in the towing department.

    as for other issues I agree with the previous posters
    I thought the D2 was 4.0 only in Aus??? In the USA, 4.6 yes, (I think) but not here. Do tell...

  10. #10
    4X4V8 Guest
    In addition, I have owned two D2s, both 1999 models, both V8s, one auto, one manual.

    So I have been there, done that. I want a P38A update, that's all there is to it.

    The only slight problem is that my XJ Cherokee is, it seems, worth 3/5th of nothing. So I want to see what cash I can get out of it, before I buy my dream car (A P38A update).

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