What model bmw is that off?
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I said a month or so back I'd upload some photographs of the BMW tank installed and the 90 degree hose connection. Sorry, I only just remembered!Excuse the mud splatter, I usually do actually keep the engine bay spotless - even if I don't wash the exterior...
This is it fitted (not wired in for this photo, but the sensor is the black thing screwed in at the back):
Don't mind the looped off heater hose, that's not required; you just leave it as normal. My o-rings just started leaking so I did that until I have the time to repair it (I imagine there's a few people on here with their heater hose like this)
A close up of the bend in the hose:
I really want to put a different hose on it as I fear that bracket cutting into it but it's not as bad as it looks in the photo. The extra clamp just helps it hold shape when cold, and it's not really necessary. None of this would be an issue if I just went and bought a new hose with a 90 degree bend in it.
I have another one at the in-law's house that is off the car, I could go and take a photograph of the BMW one and the original side by side sometime through the week if someone's interested.
What model bmw is that off?
Sent from my GT-I9305T using AULRO mobile app
I thought the BMW tank although very similar does not have one of the small outlets on the bottom. There will be a few old threads about this. I still wonder why more dont fit the $2 ebay sender to the original tank as I have done 4 times now with great success..
From memory the BMW sender is closed circuit when level is high and open when level low so you will have to wire in a 5 pin relay to set off any alarm when level drops
Quite a few e30 e36, see the bottom of this listing, 86 variants
BMW E30 Radiator Expansion Tank Facelift 320 325 316 318 | eBay
Yes, I wrote about that recently. I'll take a couple of side-by-side photographs on the weekend so people can see the exact difference. The only missing connection (actually an inlet) is the tiny connection at the bottom that runs from the throttle body heater, which I have deleted.
For anyone interested, read from this post onwards:
Which heater core
I might add that information to the first post tonight if I have the time.
Probably for the reason that you have replaced it four times...Originally Posted by wayneg
Joking, of course! I'm guessing they were four different installs, not replacements.
That works too, however it is potentially not as reliable (anecdotal evidence to the contrary aside). I normally go for the most do it yourself option using the most available low-cost option however this was one of the few items I don't want compromise on (says I with the dodgy-looking hose).
That's nothing that can't be fixed with just a transistor. It just depends on what you're signalling. An LED or two or an alarm wouldn't have any problem with a transistor rather than a relay.Originally Posted by wayneg
Rage Over, I would have serious reservations about removing the hose from the block to the bottom of the expansion tank. There is quite a heavy flow through there and its a high point on the engine. No problem deleting the the throttle body, I have routed mine direct from the block to the expansion tank with new hose. The hard plastic stuff goes brittle. I would also recommend removing the surplus hose clamp that is still on close to the tank on your car.
I have fitted the senders to 4 separate cars. The 1st one I did was not a great success as I dropped the whole sender into the coolant not wanting to drill a 12mm hole in the tank. I kept getting false warnings. I eventually did it correctly and have had no issues at all. What I think is the best selling point is the sender is 10mm lower than the level. The smallest problem shows before any dramatic outcome.
I picked up an expansion tank from a diesel discovery that doesn't have the block feed nipple on its underside. I've modded it to accept a level sensor, and want to add a temp probe before I fit it.
I too was going to do away with the hose from the block to the tanks underside. Instead I was going to fit a manual pressure relief valve on a short length of hose. This would allow me to release trapped air. But now its been mentioned, should I be concerned about a "dead spot" of coolant flow, if I block this hose off, leading to a localised hot spot.
I guess using one of the laser heat guns would tell me if there was a localised overheating problem.
[EDIT: This post is a reply to Wayne]
Yes, it definitely shouldn't be done without considering the implications.
There is reasonable flow through there however it isn't needed for cooling capacity, only for the throttle body heater and bleeding the system.
I have removed the throttle body all together and remove the cap on the intake manifold to bleed it.
I originally was going to tee it into the tank outlet, but decided against it in favour of manual bleeding. The flow is not needed for engine cooling function.
The surplus clamp is necessary for now until I replace the hose with a more suitably shaped one.
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