How do I remove the fresh/recirc servo motor

**ian4002000** · 24th August 2014, 06:37 AM

Originally Posted by Scouse

Just the crash pad assy but you also need to loosen the dash end frames too.

There's a seal which fits between the recirc housing & the pollen filter housing. It needs to be fitted onto the recirc housing prior to fitment & then pulled up through the body. To pull it up, the pollen filter housing needs to come off.

The seal is the rectangular piece at the bottom of this picture:

Yes that works, not too hard but very time consuming the first time.
Thanks for the directions they work.
I should have applied power to the motor first to check its operation as it was working.
Removing the dash pad has allowed me to fit a new seal between the air cond unit and the dash pad, which had dissolved. I made one up from foam seal strips.
I have also blocked up the vent tubes leading to the rear console outlet as these have no practical use and are a source of warm air on a hot day.
Replacing the plenum filter with gutter guard as I had some and it wont restrict air flow but will stop leaves etc going down the plenum.

**Scouse** · 27th August 2014, 08:26 AM

Originally Posted by ian4002000

I should have applied power to the motor first to check its operation as it was working.

What did you find to be the problem?

**ian4002000** · 27th August 2014, 05:54 PM

Not sure, The two wire blend motors are powered either way by positive and negative.
I should have done this before removing the dash pad and vent assembly.
The manual also talks about the system do a self test and operating all the flaps after the battery is reconnected, so now I don't know whether the blend motor was working but out of limit or just a bad connection.
I have been giving all the electrical connectors a good spray of CRC Di Electric Grease. This stuff should be in every P38 toolkit and should give good connections for years to come.

**TheTree** · 28th August 2014, 09:09 AM

Originally Posted by ian4002000

Not sure, The two wire blend motors are powered either way by positive and negative.
I should have done this before removing the dash pad and vent assembly.
The manual also talks about the system do a self test and operating all the flaps after the battery is reconnected, so now I don't know whether the blend motor was working but out of limit or just a bad connection.
I have been giving all the electrical connectors a good spray of CRC Di Electric Grease. This stuff should be in every P38 toolkit and should give good connections for years to come.

Dielectric grease is good stuff, but don't get it on the actually connectors because it is an insulator

To clean corroded contacts use DeOxit or similar and for dirty contacts you can use an electronic solvent spray

Steve

**ian4002000** · 28th August 2014, 06:06 PM

I thought di electric grease would increase the contact of the terminals and was used to connect heat sinks on transistors to help them last longer by giving a better connection.

**TheTree** · 28th August 2014, 06:42 PM

Originally Posted by ian4002000

I thought di electric grease would increase the contact of the terminals and was used to connect heat sinks on transistors to help them last longer by giving a better connection.

It seems it is an insulator but can be used on high voltage connections

Silicone grease - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Using it on transistor heatsinks increases the thermal transfer rate between the heatsink and the device resulting in cooler running

Steve

Thread: How do I remove the fresh/recirc servo motor

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