Thread: Desert Cooler Radiator results

So let me see if I have this correct...

You replaced an old factory radiator, flushed the block, maybe changed the thermostat etc and then topped up with fresh coolant and a new radiator and your engines running cooler?!

Sounds like the same benefit may have been gained by doing the same with a new factory cooler.

Not sure Tombie - a two year old radiator wouldn't be far behind performance-wise to a new one unless it's coupled with poor coolant or a dirty cooling system, surely?

My rad is 4yrs old (but was brand spankers when I fitted it) and still looks extremely clean internally.

Cheers
Keithy

I've done the Full Flush/New Radiator/Thermostat etc on mine...
Nice to see the results of the Desert Cooler Radiator upgrade.

Next step in testing is to see their survivability when a Viscous Coupling Fan Blade Explodes

(That's happen to me once or twice... )

Isnt that interesting,, an aftermarket rad manufacturer said the standard rad was not up to the task!!
Who'd a thought???

several of us D2 boys just put a cooler thermostat in,, and the underbonnet temps of the D2 would scare you p38 boys legless!

I do like the idea of new bleed screws

Does the temp get up enough to send the oxy sensors to closed loop Pedro?

Originally Posted by Keithy P38

Not sure Tombie - a two year old radiator wouldn't be far behind performance-wise to a new one unless it's coupled with poor coolant or a dirty cooling system, surely?

My rad is 4yrs old (but was brand spankers when I fitted it) and still looks extremely clean internally.

Cheers
Keithy

Interesting, wonder if the dreaded blockages (casting material) still in the block are the cause and disturbed or compensated for by the larger cooler.

I know the 5.0L with Powerdyne blower attached never struggled with a factory radiator, 35's and a bit of fun...


Other potential heat retention issues could be old/blocked cats, and the desert coolers additional shedding capability may be compensating for the heat..

I agree! There could be other potential factors at play!

When all is said and done, Paul has had a win with his new setup! I rekon he's one of a few who have results to back it up - temp watchdog being the big one.

Personally, I don't have a watchdog but have never experienced issues with the cooling system in hot bushy low range or sand driving in mine. And I do a lot of it.

I agree with Pedro's comments regarding underbonnet temps too, others have commented how warm it is under there when I lift the lid on mine.

Could this bring us back to the ventilation discussion from last year? I know these old girls like to run warm, perhaps not an issue in colder climates, maybe not so much over here?

Cheers
Keithy

I agree there Definately could be other factors, I replaced the thermostat, reused the drained coolant and topped up, didn't bother with flushing the Block, as time was an issue.

With the original radiator and previous radiator I would often experience that heat soaked engine bay leaving me thinking is everything ok. I purposely drove in a manner to increase the engine temp with the Desert Cooler but It wouldn't build temperature. The heat from the engine bay from my sense felt normal under all circumstances. (not p38 normal)

I've read that the p38 cooling system is fine if kept in tip top condition, thats ok but it leaves little room for error. And that's not too comforting considering the consequences of overheating these motors. Apparently the motors were originally built to run at around 75-80c but they have been tuned to run 90-95c to meet pollution requirements for the cats to be efficient. This last paragraph are bits and pieces I've read on the net so don't quote me on it but certainly the motor was retired after p38 so maybe it was maxed out.

I'm certainly happy with the result and would include the Desert Cooler ( larger radiator) in my top 5 mods for a p38, infact maybe second after 33 inch km2s.


Ps I'd like to acid test it in 40c plus though.