Thread: Hi to you all some advice please

At those kms I'd expect the water pump impeller to have mostly disintegrated if it is original. Don't trust the cooling fan viscous hub either. Replacing these two items along with the aforementioned good advice re the radiator rebuild/replacement should go some way to preserving that 4.6 engines' integrity for another couple of hundred thou or thereabouts.

Hi guys i seem to have one problem if my car is standing still the heater blows cold as soon as its driving it heats up. Its got a New radiator and water pump and engine is not getting too hot. Thanks

Must be just the lack of coolant circulation when idling that causes it to blow cold.

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

How do you guys "flush" a radiator. I've never managed to flush anything from radiators. I've pulled the tanks off old downflow radiators, and not been able to pass even a hacksaw blade through the tubes (that were jamned solid). If it's a modern plastic tank radiator.... it's a throw away item.

Can you get a proper radiator made up for them rather than the aluminium/plastic tank junk ? That way it can be cleaned out in the future (though I must admit, it's amazing how cheap some of those new radiators are).

seeya,
Shane L.

The only way to clean out any radiator is to disassemble it and rod the tubes. And as mentioned with tabbed header assemblies can only be done maybe once or twice. Otherwise a power flush using air pressure in the reverse direction of flow then alternating is your next best thing (preferably after a cleaning chemical has been run through it to help dislodge/soften and breakup any sludge) Using the old flow test method is guessing. Unless its really really blocked then it will be obviously blocked. Yes, a 'proper' radiator can be custom built (in cu/br or full alloy). I costed a heavy duty high efficiency one up in full copper/brass as a curiosity soon after I got my current P38 (from a fellow AULRO'ian, thanks I love it ) and it's expensive and until the current stock system proves insufficient then wont be pursued. I don't like full alloy radiators as a general rule.

The lack of heat when idling only is curious. Possible flow issue as suggested or airlock. I'd pull the heater hoses off and "flow test) it Verify that it is unrestricted, the garden hose should suffice for that. Flow it in both directions watching for colour/contamination.

I've noticed when doing LPG conversions that the thermostat on a P38 shuts off flow to the heater circuit when fully open for radiator cooling flow. So if you're idling and the system is not up to scratch the heater will cease to provide heat. New radiator, thermostat and viscous fan clutch would be on my shopping list before the weather gets any warmer. See Mario & Heather at Roverlord Off Road Spares.

I have an Aussie Desert Cooler radiator in mine

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Steve

Welcome aboard, congrats on the new Rangie!
The best thing I can suggest is to keep on top of the maintenance, like any vehicle, do the regular things on time (oil & filter/air filter, etc).
I have found keeping on top of these things does keep it running well and less chance of breakdowns.
Also check your pollen filters, they are probably filthy if they haven't been changed for awhile Range Rover Pollen Filter Replacement
The EAS will need attention at some stage, leaks can develop, or the valve block will need a new set of o rings to keep it going properly, but that can all be done yourself, with the help of this forum and you tube searches.
The HEVAC will also probably need some attention at some stage, usually blend motors can fail, leaving you with hot air blowing on one side and cold on the other, which gets annoying.
This can also be done yourself, (I just replaced one on mine yesterday!)
You will end up being a P38 expert after a while, it is pretty satisfying when you fix things yourself.
A copy of the rave manual is a must if you have not got one already, also a way of reading fault codes is a huge help. I have a faultmate extreme which has been excellent, there are also other units that will do the job. It's not something you use all the time, but when you do need it, you are very glad you have it!
The great thing about P38's is pretty much any problem you may come across has already been dealt with by someone else and you can find tons of great info to help you.
All the best!
Cheers, Pete.

I haven't seen anyone mention rust - don't Rangies rust?
Maybe a clean and rust treatment?
Re. radiators you can drop the bottom hose to empty and then put a hose in the top and let the water bubble through. It's not as good as a proper flush, but it could help.
New radiators are not that dear.
I would pull up all the carpets and check for rust.