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Thread: All p38 owners up to mid 1999 please read.

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    far north QLD
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    Quote Originally Posted by adm333 View Post
    Well today was the first chance I've had to try the Eezibleed one man bleeder kit.

    Gunson | G4062 | Eezibleed Kit

    This device cost about $35 from the UK, and I think its a must for all P38 owners. You could probably make it yourself, but why bother when it would cost about the same.

    It is a plastic bottle with a hose going to the brake fluid reservoir and another hose with an air valve that you attach to your tyre (drop the pressure to around 20 psi)

    I bled the brakes once with SWMBO operating the pedal, and even though she did a great job, you cannot beat this for ease and convenience, and for doing it at your own pace.

    The worst thing about it is having to refill the bottle, quite regularly, as this also requires you to remove the air valve from the tyre.

    Once you get going though, its very easy.

    If anyone in Brisbane wants to use it, be my guest. Its not the sort of thing you need every day.

    Cheers
    Dave
    Sounds good Dave Russell.

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Newcastle NSW
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    Did the repair yesterday. Anyone find that the pedal is a LOT more progressive?? It worries me i may have more air in the system. Havent driven it out of the driveway yet. Think i may do another bleed, but am curious if others have found a completely different feel to their pedal?

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Kalamunda, Western Australia
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    Ok started doing mine today, have got as far as getting the modulator out and just letting it drain out properly. Will get into it tomorrow. Biggest drama I have had so far is that when the idiots put the gas on they routed the gas line straight on top of the resovoir and it was a pain to get it out. So far instructions have been pretty well spot on.
    Fingers crossed for the rest of it.
    Shano

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Newcastle NSW
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    Finished bleeding for a second time, it really is a two man job, then it is done properly. Pedal feels better. Now ive got to do the accumulator. Arghh! My plastic washers didnt break with fingers though, however as soon as i put the pliers and the slightest of pressure they disintegrated.

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Sydney
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    I have bled my brakes about 5 times since I did the repair. The reason being that I felt the ABS pump was cycling too frequently and that there was air somewhere in the system. The pedal was good, but the pump was cutting in too pften and for too long. Incremental improvements were seen after each bleed.

    It is quite possible to do it by yourself. On the bleed valve I have one of those one way bleed tubes that has a ball valve in it - these are available from SCA for about $15 and prevent the fluid from going back into the valve.

    On the reservoir side I have a the pressure bleeder which gets its pressure from the front drivers side tyre (which is let down to about 20 psi).

    It takes me about an hour and a half and 2 - 3 litres of brake fluid.

    Dave
    2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 Autobiography
    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    2004 Freelander TD4 SE
    1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
    1994 Range Rover Vogue
    ----------------------------------------

  6. #66
    Roger0123 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Aussie View Post
    I'd only had my 99model P38 about 2 weeks, coming home with the Wife in Peak hour along St kilda road when I lost all braking. Foot went straight to the floor. I was lucky as it was still under warranty, so I limped to the mother-in-laws house just around the corner (using the handbrake). The dealer picked it up and replaced the faulty part. I am assuming my little piece of plastic broke....
    Hi,
    What is the plastic bit that broke? I'm looking at buying a 97 model 4.0 HSE.

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Sydney
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    On page 2 & 3 of this thread you will see pictures of the plastic retaining disc that was used to contain the springs in the master cylinder of the modulator.

    When these disintegrate, nothing is retaining the springs and therefore all braking ability is lost.

    This thread is about a modification / fix whereby you replace the plastic retaining disc with a specially machined stainless steel version.
    2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 Autobiography
    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    2004 Freelander TD4 SE
    1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
    1994 Range Rover Vogue
    ----------------------------------------

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Newcastle NSW
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    ok, a week or so after the repair and after having a good flush and bleed, my brakes are very much either on or off. Hmmm, i'm thinking i need to re do the small piston with the spring behind it, behind the allen key nut at forward end of the modulator. Anyone else got tips??

  9. #69
    merul Guest

    brake modulator.

    hi there, my p38 brakes jammed. the problem is the brake modulator. I am looking for my P38 brake modulator, rebuild/repair kit the ones without plastic parts???.

  10. #70
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Mindarie, Western Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by merul View Post
    hi there, my p38 brakes jammed. the problem is the brake modulator. I am looking for my P38 brake modulator, rebuild/repair kit the ones without plastic parts???.
    Merul

    Send Russell an email

    rx007.car@bigpond.com

    he sells the rebuild rebuild kits

    Gary

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