Thread: EAS suspension problem

g'day Nomad, I recently reinstalled the EAS that had been removed from my 94 RR Classic by the previous owner, learned a little bit about the system in the process (it is the same system as the p38). If you scroll down this forum a little way, you will see a post enquiring about O-rings for EAS- there's a link in there to Rover Renovations website which is a goldmine of EAS info. I recommend buying their valve block overhaul kit and replacing ALL the o-rings; the kit is quite inexpensive.
I could not tell you from memory which solenoid is located in what position. There are four solenoids for the four airsprings with identical internals, located immediately adjacent to their respective pipe outlets on the block. There is a solenoid that opens to allow pressurised air into the valve block and another that exhausts air to deflate springs. The inlet & exhaust solenoids look the same as the others but have different internals. When the ECU determines that a particular spring needs more air, both the inlet solenoid and the solenoid for that particular spring are activated. To deflate, the exhaust solenoid plus the solenoid for that spring are activated.
Seems odd to me that both springs on one side are deflating, as I don't think the passages intersect unless both solenoids are activated. Is it possible that only one corner is leaking down, making the vehicle sag on that side before the computer levels it? Or maybe you have 2 separate leaks after replacing some O-rings (there are 2 o-rings in each push-in hose connector- maybe you have only replaced one and/or damaged/dislodged the other?). Easiest way to locate leaks is with a sauce bottle full of water & detergent- squirt it over the connections and watch where the bubbles come from. this won't locate a leak in the solenoid o-rings and seals as they are internal.

POD,
You've been a great help I've checked out to and signed up for the Rover Reno site, more great information and you were right about the prices. I paid $50 for some o-rings to get me out of the poop at the weekend, their price is $35 for the lot. Ah well these o-rings helped and I wouldn't of got them as quickly as I wanted them.
I think I have more problems than just o-rings, I'm getting more specialised bits from TRS in Adelaide, they are also a great resource. I have a cracked valve seat and I think a cracked valve body albiet a very smal crack.
Again thanks for the help.

Just thought my experience might help others. My 99 had no issues with the air suspension. I had new tyres fitted and he car was lifted up with all 4 wheels clear of the ground. After the car was lowered down the OSF suspension was collapsed. On inspection the air spring rubber bellows had popped off at the top. It was easily put back and the car returned to the correct ride height. After this the car slowly drooped to the OSF overnight. I got around to removing the spring completely and cleaned it meticulously before re fixing. It still leaked very slowly so after a few days off it came again for re-cleaning and refit. Still a slow leak. In frustration I coated the top inner sealing edge of the rubber with a thin smear of loctite #3 non hardening sealant ( kindly left in my garage by Mike90RR, Thanks Mike ) After re-fitting no more leak.

I've seen tyre bead sealant used with success too.

I know adm333 is intimately acquanited with the P38 EAS and has even built his own controller oxes etc.
He's away doping the Variety bash at the moment which is why he hasn;t posted here yet !
Worth a PM which I;m sure he'll reply to on his return.
Cheers

Nomad,
Another issue is the aging solenoid valves.

They get worse with the constant closing and the rubber inserts get impressed with the shape of the valve seat.
I've just replaced the O-rings for the second time and now both left side bags leak down after 20 minutes.
Before I changed the O-rings the second time I only had the front left dropping.
So, now on a mission to replace the valves or at least the rubber inserts.

Cheers
Jeff
96 P38
ROMSEY Victoria

Bugger, forgot to add, I've bought another complete valve block off flea-bay so when it's fitted I'll rip into drilling out the old rubber bits and fitting new suitable rubber,

Cheers

Jeff

start out by heading down to a pnuematics shop and purchasing a push to fit adaptor that will fit the airline that goes down to the airbag. also get a shraeder fitting to go with that adaptor. (its preferable to do all 4 at once and if you decide that you'll want 4 of them)

plug each airline from the valve block to the airbags and inflate each airbag using a compressor and the schreader valve. check that your new fittings arent leaking, cap the valves and then start spraying down the airlines and the joints to the new airbags.

IME 2/3 replacement airbag jobs that leak almost immediately after fitting leak from the fitting at the top of the airbag or from a hairline fracture in the line at the first bend from the line.