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Thread: Rodding P38 radiator, possible?

  1. #1
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    Rodding P38 radiator, possible?

    I've got a 1996 P38 4.6. It hasn't overheated, but on very hot days the guage moves up from its normal position dangerously close to the red.
    Its got a newish fan clutch which I'm sure works ok.

    I think its time to rod out the radiator. I was able to get that done on my 3.9 classic, but can I get the P38 radiator rodded or is it not possible with that type of radiator.

  2. #2
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    From my experience, some guys say they can, others say they can't.

    Ask your local LR mechanic and see who they use?

    The danger is the top and bottom plastic moldings, these have to be removed and re installed with out breaking, depending on how old and brittle these plastic bits are you may end up having to buy a new one anyways.

    I had no option(chemiweld) and bought a new one. Though I have heard that there is varying quality out there if you go down this route.

    hope this is of some help?

    Kalincho

  3. #3
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    As Kalincho said the plastic mouldings are the problem. They are close to the price of a new radiator and the commercial places don't really like them because if they break a new one then they have to replace. In fact they told me that it was going to be my problem if they broke it.

    I have replaced my radiator with a new one, head gasket and liners are ok, electrical fans have a bypass so that i can manually turn them on viscous fan is new, thermostat is new and guess what on those really hot days the needle still rises when going very slow but cools down when i pick up enough speed.

    I have given up. I think Ron on this forum changed his thermostat for metal pipes and put a thermostat that opens at lower temperature up the top. Ron if you read this is that replacement available and has it made a difference on the really hot days? I would like to know more as i only have the water pump to go and then everything is new!

    Cheers,
    Remy

  4. #4
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    Serious question: why do you believe the radiator may need to be rodded?

    Radiators attached to aluminium engines are generally free of "glug" because they don't rust. If the correct coolant has always been used it should be virtually trouble free.

    Is the coolant in the overflow tank cloudy or clear?

    IMHO I'd be checking the thermostat and the fans AND the accuracy of the gauge before embarking on a major radiator repair...

    good luck...hope it's nothing major...

  5. #5
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    I have never had any trouble getting the tanks removed and cores cleaned out. I do it with every radiator i sell. Just dont brake the little hose off the top.
    Andy

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoges View Post
    Serious question: why do you believe the radiator may need to be rodded?

    Radiators attached to aluminium engines are generally free of "glug" because they don't rust. If the correct coolant has always been used it should be virtually trouble free..
    This was mine:

    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    This was mine:

    Come on Ron, tell us more!

    Willem

  8. #8
    macca72 Guest

    macca72

    If the core is glugged up it would be running hot all the time.If only on hot days it sounds more like an air flow problem.Maybe cleaning the outside first.

    Keep it simple.

  9. #9
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    I f you have been using antifreeze/antiboil they contain glycol. Glycol is sugar based and over time crystallises and deposits on the inside of the radiator! A 5% restriction will cause about a 25% reduction in cooling. The only way to remove the build up is to rod the radiator. Tectaloy makes a corrosion inhibitor that doesnt have glycol so does repco.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by landrover dave View Post
    I f you have been using antifreeze/antiboil they contain glycol. Glycol is sugar based and over time crystallises and deposits on the inside of the radiator! A 5% restriction will cause about a 25% reduction in cooling. The only way to remove the build up is to rod the radiator. Tectaloy makes a corrosion inhibitor that doesnt have glycol so does repco.


    It's most likely that the scale deposits in P38 radiators is due to consistent use of high mineral content water (like what happens in an electric kettle).

    Lessons Learned: use demineralised water ony in the cooling system !

    Ethylene glycol is thermally stable at the temp ranges we are talking about (100% EG boils a tad below 200 degC). Hence its use extensively in non automotive applications as a heat transfer agent...

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