Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 30

Thread: If you ever need to replace your driver's door latch .....

  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,834
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Same issue as you Aussie with the manual operation of the drivers door lock. My keyfobs are getting a bit dodgy and the unlock button doesn't always work... usually when I'm in a rush . Think it is a contact problem on the PCB in the remote, but since I don't have Ron's electronic skills I haven't tried to fix it yet.

    Got stuck one day and could not get the EKA code to work either so I suspect my door latch is tired.

    Used the FaultMate to disable the alarm function for the time being. That way, I can unlock the drivers door manually, put the key in the ignition and hit the Lock button... all doors unlock and the engine is un-immobilised.

    Note to self: add new door latch to roundtuit list

    Cheers, Paul.
    My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Melb.
    Posts
    601
    Total Downloaded
    0
    yes agreed me thinks its the door lock getting old . If I put the key in slowly it seems to be fine.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,388
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Aussie View Post
    yes agreed me thinks its the door lock getting old . If I put the key in slowly it seems to be fine.
    The lock barrel is separate from the latch unit.

    If putting your key in slowly changes the outcome, then it may be the barrel not the latch.

    At the back of the key barrel, is a pushrod that goes down to the latch unit and activates the "lock - unlock" mechanism.
    2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 Autobiography
    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    2004 Freelander TD4 SE
    1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
    1994 Range Rover Vogue
    ----------------------------------------

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Melb.
    Posts
    601
    Total Downloaded
    0
    At the back of the key barrel, is a pushrod that goes down to the latch unit and activates the "lock - unlock" mechanism.
    Cheers, I'll take the door trim off on the weekend and "have a fiddle", I'll probally bugger it up

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Melton West, Victoria
    Posts
    363
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I think my door latch is on the way out too Fob is working about 90% of the time, rest of the time I have to use the key. Opening and shutting the door sometimes helps. The door is also pretty difficult to open at times having to give it quite a 'yank'. So I'll put a latch on my roundtuit list too.

    Saw this on rangerovers.net also - may help someone http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdet...chreplace.html

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Melb.
    Posts
    601
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I pulled the Drivers door Latch and handle out last night (bugger of a job if you have big hands) I stripped it down and cleaned it. I also filed the little plastic part down that was "sticking". Chucked some Graphite paste on the plastic handle section. It appears too be working quite well at this stage.

  7. #17
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is offline Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
    Administrator
    I'm here to help you!
    Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Western Sydney
    Posts
    30,707
    Total Downloaded
    1.63 MB
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Wagga
    Posts
    329
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Ok so before i look and take the door apart the drivers door stopped opening 2 days ago by remote. The key works fine. All other doors open when i press the remote. Has an arm come of that pushes the button up or is it more likely the unit has failed?

    Cheers,
    Remy

  9. #19
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is offline Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
    Administrator
    I'm here to help you!
    Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Western Sydney
    Posts
    30,707
    Total Downloaded
    1.63 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by PaulP38a View Post
    My keyfobs are getting a bit dodgy and the unlock button doesn't always work... usually when I'm in a rush . Think it is a contact problem on the PCB in the remote, but since I don't have Ron's electronic skills I haven't tried to fix it yet.
    Both remotes or just one?

    I found that on mine, the switch had come off the PCB. Soldering it back on to fixed the problem.

    Of course, that meant opening up the keyfob.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,388
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Remy View Post
    Ok so before i look and take the door apart the drivers door stopped opening 2 days ago by remote. The key works fine. All other doors open when i press the remote. Has an arm come of that pushes the button up or is it more likely the unit has failed?

    Cheers,
    Remy
    Interesting ! if the arm between the door latch mechanism and the button has come adrift (highly unlikely since its almost impossible to remove even when you have the whole thing apart), it wouldn't work from inside the car.

    Sit in the car and try locking / unlocking - that will rule out the push rod.

    Using the key has a push rod that goes down to the latch mechanism and then another pushrod goes from the mechanism back up to the inside door button.

    The other thing I was advised to check is the connection harnesses that goes through the door and into the car body. Remove the rubber hose protector and make sure that the 2 connectors are clean and corrosion free.

    Also (and obviously) make sure your fob batteries are new / in good nick.

    Dave
    Last edited by adm333; 13th February 2010 at 10:25 AM. Reason: shocking typos
    2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 Autobiography
    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    2004 Freelander TD4 SE
    1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
    1994 Range Rover Vogue
    ----------------------------------------

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!