Rust removal with molasses.

**Mick_Marsh** · 7th November 2010, 06:52 PM

Just an update.
Two weeks now.
The solution is bubbling heaps. I wonder what gas it is.
DSCF1085.jpg
Lots of the rust has gone.
There is pitting on the pop rivets.
The observable results are supporting hodgo's comments regarding non ferrous metals. That could be an advantage.
DSCF1086.jpg
The laundry (where this process is taking place) is starting to smell more acidic (vinegarish) which supports bobslandies comments. I think I'll be moving it to the garden shed soon.

**Lakey** · 9th November 2010, 01:21 PM

Murray, I've been using molasses for a while now also. I used to use Phosphoric Acid which works well but if you forget you have something soaking it can be a bit disastrous. The molasses on the other hand doesn’t seem to attack the metal, only the rust. I’ve not done anything major with the molasses as yet, only an old block and tackle which is so far coming up okay.

I was thinking of doing my springs before I saw your post but was wondering if you need to apply any grease or lubricant of some kind between the leaves when re-assembling. I had them reset about 15 years or more back but since then the project stalled so they had been back on the chassis but then just sitting in the weather so are now a bit rusty. Also if I paint them after treatment should it be before or after reassembly? Anybody have an opinion?

Cheers and thanks again for the interesting post Murray
Lakey

**rijidij** · 9th November 2010, 06:56 PM

Originally Posted by Lakey

Murray, I've been using molasses for a while now also. I used to use Phosphoric Acid which works well but if you forget you have something soaking it can be a bit disastrous. The molasses on the other hand doesn’t seem to attack the metal, only the rust. I’ve not done anything major with the molasses as yet, only an old block and tackle which is so far coming up okay.

I was thinking of doing my springs before I saw your post but was wondering if you need to apply any grease or lubricant of some kind between the leaves when re-assembling. I had them reset about 15 years or more back but since then the project stalled so they had been back on the chassis but then just sitting in the weather so are now a bit rusty. Also if I paint them after treatment should it be before or after reassembly? Anybody have an opinion?

Cheers and thanks again for the interesting post Murray
Lakey

Before I re-assembled my springs I used 'POR5 Metal Ready' on the bare metal, then a bit of copper grease between the leaves and painted them after they were together with some black 'Stone Guard' (anti chip under body coating) I had all this stuff in the shed already so I thought I'd see how it goes.

Another thing I've been wondering is, how long does the molasses last. Does it lose it's effectiveness. I'm soaking some other things in the same mix at the moment and I notice that it's not bubbling or foaming like it did before, but it still seems to be working fine.

Cheers, Murray

**Mick_Marsh** · 15th November 2010, 11:07 PM

Third week.
Lots of shiny metal.
DSCF1088.jpg

**russellrovers** · 16th November 2010, 02:16 PM

Originally Posted by garrycol

I tried a mix of 1:10 molasses a couple of years ago and was most unimpressed with the result. I put in a rusty bike tank that had all the paint removed - after a month the shiny metal bits were a little more shiny but the rust was there and had not moved. I moved the tank every couple of days and left it completely submerged for about 4 weeks.

Was a waste of time.

Garry

cheaps skate 25 litres to a 44 drum comes out perfect after 4 days the product lasts only so long have been using it for years jim

**wizzid** · 14th December 2010, 05:36 PM

Yesterday mixed up a 10:1 molasses brew and started soaking some suspension bits and radiator support brackets off the "New County" and left the tub in the sun. Had a look this arvo and is bubbling away already. Will be interesting to see how long it takes for everything to clean up . BTW a 20lt tub set me back $25 from the local feed and grain.

**Mick_Marsh** · 14th December 2010, 07:13 PM

Oh ****!
I forgot!

**FenianEel** · 14th December 2010, 07:28 PM

Originally Posted by numpty

Used to be cheap. 200 l for $25 direct from Nambour Sugar Mill.

Damn site more expensive than that now.....if you can get it.

Now there's no mill, no cheap molasses, and bugger all cane on the Coast

I used molasses to clean some tools from an original LR tool roll, from one of the Series 3's. It worked a treat.

**roverrescue** · 24th January 2011, 02:25 PM

Just picked up 5L of molassess for 65c a litre.
Plan on derusting a few bits and pieces that have not enjoyed the humidity.
So not serious rust but just a bit worse than flash rust.

I read elswhere to soak in phosphorc acid after the molasses to stop flash rust.
Rijidij recommened POR5 Metal Ready.
Would any good metal primer do or is the POR stuff the goto?

Steve

**87County** · 24th January 2011, 03:16 PM

While this thread is headed molasses, I'll add this for general info....

IMHO the first thing to do is to decide whether rust conversion (to phosphate) or rust removal is required.

If rust conversion is required there is a product called ranex rustbuster (from bunnings type shops) which is available in a spray bottle, obviously a phosphoric acid type preparation which converts a lightly rusted finish to a dark grey phosphate - it depends on the film of rust to have something to convert to the phosphate

If rust removal is desired, citric acid can be used instead of molasses. Mixed 2%-5% powder to water, it is great for removing the rust that is usually on garage or clearing sale items including screws, chisels, screwdrivers etc etc. Items need to be totally immersed in the mixture and it doesn't seem to "keep attacking" the base steel or iron. After 8hrs, the first layer of corrosion can be carded off with coarse cloth or hessian, and the item returned to the solution.

NB: Use only on ferrous alloys or iron (they're the only rusters anyway)

Citric acid is obtainable from grocery suppliers and is used in the food industry in things like lemonade (also has other industrial uses).

The stuff I use is produced by Windsor Farm Foods - Home. I imagine that they would be happy to tell you who sells it near you. A 1 kg container of the powder is under $15 - lasts a long time

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