Thread: Bundalene's Puma project

Originally Posted by Dave1

This engine looks like a nightmare to work on once it's back in the body.

You know it is probably no more difficult than any modern engine.

I am going out today to buy some hose clamps to replace the existing. That's probably just me going over the top as I am not a fan of those clamps used by Land Rover and many other vehicle manufactures. I counted over 20 separate coolant hoses. Remember the Series, pre heater days had 2 or 3.

I must say IMHO the Puma engine now has quite a few hose splitters - 3 , 4 & 5 way pieces in place of those other wierd hoses milti-directional hoses on the TD5 and TDi. It should make bush repairs a lot easier. Also there appear to be 3 main sizes so 3 sections of spare hose should suffice as breakdown spares when the vehicle gets a bit older.

Erich

Erich,
Its good to see another of your projects shared for the community!
First, with respect to heat/ sound I noticed Whitworths in Cairns last week had the 25mm foil backed foam insulation sheets (1200x1400mm from memory) were $40 down from $60. Not sure if its ausitralia wide but it may work well in transmission tunnel? Certainly good on boat engine boxes?
Second, how do you rate the KBS product?

Steve

Originally Posted by roverrescue

Erich,
Its good to see another of your projects shared for the community!
First, with respect to heat/ sound I noticed Whitworths in Cairns last week had the 25mm foil backed foam insulation sheets (1200x1400mm from memory) were $40 down from $60. Not sure if its ausitralia wide but it may work well in transmission tunnel? Certainly good on boat engine boxes?
Second, how do you rate the KBS product?

Steve

As discussed on here before, the foil backed low density foam stuff (e.g. from Clark Rubber) is no good against sound transmission. It may be good against heat, but not too much heat - I have it on the bonnet of my 110 (as does Rijidij), and both of us have had the section above the turbo melt.

Is this stuff the same as that? or Better?

The product I have is an aluminium covered foil from Clark Rubber - not very suitable? Thanks for the advice

I have just come across this on the net

Megasorber Acoustic Foam with Non-combustible Sound-absorbing Soundmesh G8 Facing

Has anyone used this or know the cost?

I will make some enquiries.


Also a product I rear about on this forum is Dynamat, a little expensive at about $60 per square meter, but many rave about it.

Erich

Originally Posted by roverrescue

Erich,
Its good to see another of your projects shared for the community!
First, with respect to heat/ sound I noticed Whitworths in Cairns last week had the 25mm foil backed foam insulation sheets (1200x1400mm from memory) were $40 down from $60. Not sure if its ausitralia wide but it may work well in transmission tunnel? Certainly good on boat engine boxes?
Second, how do you rate the KBS product?

Steve

I have been a fan of POR15, but the KBS have a similar product which seems very similar and about $20 per litre less. I will look at the Whitworth product range do some research on heat insullation / sound proofing shortly.

Thanks for your suggestions,

Erich

Originally Posted by Bundalene

The product I have is an aluminium covered foil from Clark Rubber - not very suitable? Thanks for the advice

I have just come across this on the net

Megasorber Acoustic Foam with Non-combustible Sound-absorbing Soundmesh G8 Facing

Has anyone used this or know the cost?

I will make some enquiries.


Also a product I rear about on this forum is Dynamat, a little expensive at about $60 per square meter, but many rave about it.

Erich

Erich - Bojan (username Offender90) on here is a professional acoustics engineer. He is the best person to talk to about what is - and has posted a few comments on the issue.

A colleague of mine is a heat/thermal engineer, I can ask him what is best for heat if you are interested.

I'm interested as I need to heat shield above the transfer box (under the panel below the cubby). This gets very hot on a Puma.

The chassis is back from the repair shop, only took a couple of days. The repairer said he got the straightening so close there is no need for a wheel alignment, (I will get one anyhow) all diagonal measurements were spot on.



Before:











After:

The pic is a bit dark as it was taken early this morning







Now for a full chassis rust seal and cavity wax inside.

I can't work on this until next week as I am helping a mate move house.

Erich