Thread: Bundalene's Puma project

Originally Posted by dmdigital

I'm interested as I need to heat shield above the transfer box (under the panel below the cubby). This gets very hot on a Puma.

I had a chat to him. Interestingly, for heat, you need the opposite of what you need for noise. i.e. - to stop sound transmission you need MASS - to limit heat transfer, a material with multiple layers of foil separated by multiple layers of low density material (e.g. foam/air) is best. So a few layers of that foil-lined low density foam may work well.

hi Erich,

When i repaired a older 110 many years ago and wanted the chassis repaired straightened my contact wanted the entire chassis stripped of diff, axles etc. you seem to have gotten away with running gear intact. is this true? And have they welded in new pieces or just simply straightened. what did they do to the buckled pieces of steel on the chassis? In the end we simply bought a brand new chassis from UK and swapped over. though your attempt would be easier. cheers

Originally Posted by isuzurover

I had a chat to him. Interestingly, for heat, you need the opposite of what you need for noise. i.e. - to stop sound transmission you need MASS - to limit heat transfer, a material with multiple layers of foil separated by multiple layers of low density material (e.g. foam/air) is best. So a few layers of that foil-lined low density foam may work well.

Thanks for that information,


I spoke with the people at Megasorber yesterday and they basically said that there is no one product which works well for both sound and heat and suggested they be tackled individually.

I have also made enquiries with other products such as Pyrotek as used around truck cabins for noise control and Dynamat who also suggested separate acoustic and heat layers. Presently I am not certain which way I will go.

Erich

Originally Posted by shamirj

hi Erich,

When i repaired a older 110 many years ago and wanted the chassis repaired straightened my contact wanted the entire chassis stripped of diff, axles etc. you seem to have gotten away with running gear intact. is this true? And have they welded in new pieces or just simply straightened. what did they do to the buckled pieces of steel on the chassis? In the end we simply bought a brand new chassis from UK and swapped over. though your attempt would be easier. cheers

The 2 buckled spots pulled out straight - you can't see where the chassis was bent. They did remove the dumb iron at the lower left front to get in and straighten the very front corner where the point of impact was. The front cross piece was also replaced.

The longitudal sections of the chassis were not cut or welded.

I stripped the chassis forward of the damaged area, as requested by the repairer. Also the front wheels, trailing arms , axle assemble were removed. The rest of the chassis was left intact.

It was suggested at one stage that repairer may be able to straighted the chassis without even removing the body but this would br far more difficult.

Erich

Today we spent a lot of time cleaning the chassis and then painting it with a rust sealer






I removed the front cross member and was quite disappointed to find that there had been no paint nor primer behind this prior to assembly. I removed all bolts, brackets and items and rust sealed behind them. This and one other bolt which was not painted behind the nut.









. All others were primed and painted before assembly, including the long bracket at the very rear of the chassis. They all got another coat regardless.



The photo does not do this justice. That is only a bit of dust visible, the paint was in good nick.


Erich

Hi,
Man, are you keen or what - its taken me three days to put on a bull bar and fit a snorkel.

Re your photo of the lousy fitting for the snorkel, that is actually part of the original air intake just inside the mudguard. (the snorkel bits are all external to the mudguard) This was noted in the online instructions for fitting the snorkel, but not on the printed version that came with the product.
You may find this much easier to goop up before it goes back in the vehicle, but check that there is room to get the first bit in when joined to the long inlet duct, I couldn't get mine out and had to goop it in situ.

cheers

It is a bit early to comment on this part of the build. I have a lot of thoughts but done little at this stage. Eventually I plan to replace all the items between the actual snorkel and the air filter as I feel IMHO there is a fair bit of restriction in this section.









I hope I don't finish up with too much air.

I have just found a pic I took early in the piece, showing the air circuit along the inner guard. One can see the restrictions and there is no real physical need for most of this as there is enough space to run a descent intake air line

The air cleaner in this pic is damaged.

Erich

Hi Erich,

Thanks for the thread and the interesting insights.

My snorkel (Safari) was installed by Gordon at OL. He replaced all the bits between the snorkel and the box with a flexible rubber duct. He used the Td5 kit rather than the Puma Kit.