Bundalene's Puma project

**Bundalene** · 3rd December 2010, 07:39 PM

I spent some time bleeding the fuel system, that was after getting the fuel lines through the small gap between the body and chassis, just forward of the fuel filter.

It took me 2 trips to a wrecker looking for the bits I required. I will post more on this later when I do some more research.

I used an outboard motor hand pump, connected to some 12mm fittings I cut out of a late model wrecked Hyundai. This priming job has fought all the way. There are 2 spots where the fuel system can be disconnected to insert a manual primer, one is 10mm and the second is 12mm. I had heaps of 3/8 fuel line disconnects available from a Series2 Disco and was led to believe these would be interchangeable, but they aren’t. I got some fittings from a Ford Escape but found these to be so difficult to use, basically a one use only fitting. Finally I found the Hyundai fittings and made up a priming pump.
In my case the entire fuel lines and filter were empty. I couldn’t get the system primed. I filled the fuel filter several times and still no joy. Finally I blocked the openings of the fuel tank filler and filler breathers with a plastic bag and pressurised the tank through the small breather with instant success.

Another decision – to use the original plastic inner guards or use galvanized steel inner guards? I have had these in my workshop for 3 or 4 days now and look at them often! I do have good reason to go back to the steel ones.

Erich

**saiken** · 3rd December 2010, 08:08 PM

Mmmmm.... not sure why but if it was me I think I'd go the galvanized ones. less chance of something breaking them somehow.

also crazy priming setup

**Bundalene** · 3rd December 2010, 08:32 PM

I will make a better primer later, just now I had to get the job done. End of the day it only cost a bit of time and fuel as the guy at the wreckers gave me the bits.

As for the inner guards, the Puma ones are made of GRP (Glass re-inforced Plastic) and are very difficult to modify as not much will adhere to them. This is a similar material which Corvette guards (fenders) are made of.

I would like to lower the air cleaner by about 30mm which would mean cutting and re-shaping the inner guard.

At this stage I am only thinking ahead as I am not sure how much room I will have underneath with hoses etc. I will have to assemble the front end firsty and then see.

Erich

**newhue** · 3rd December 2010, 11:04 PM

Hi Bundalene, big job you have there, but a job well done I must say. Thanks for your enthusiasm and keeping us all informed.

If you have the old puma guard hanging around, could I ask you to measure the size the aerial hole please. I'd like to replace my original aerial with a better one. But apparently the better one requires a 16mm hole, and many aerials holes are 22mm apparently.

thanks

**Bundalene** · 4th December 2010, 03:27 PM

Originally Posted by newhue

Hi Bundalene, big job you have there, but a job well done I must say. Thanks for your enthusiasm and keeping us all informed.

If you have the old puma guard hanging around, could I ask you to measure the size the aerial hole please. I'd like to replace my original aerial with a better one. But apparently the better one requires a 16mm hole, and many aerials holes are 22mm apparently.

thanks

Hi Jason,

I just measured the hole size in a Puma guard with verniers at 24.75mm.

Erich

**Bundalene** · 5th December 2010, 05:53 PM

I had a few hours spare today so I decided to re-install the dash and all the trim.

First, place the long trim section on place and work the center around the gear stick hub. This was a little difficult due to the additional sound deadening on the tunnel.

Next, check that all wiring is in the correct areas by double checking each individual plug
Next, connect the 4 speakers. This is easiest done by removing the speakers, connecting them and replacing them.

Install 4 screws along the center of the dash section – do not tighten any screws at this stage. These 4 are temporary locating screws and will be replaced later.

Next, install the 2 screws hidden in the center of the tunnel

Install the 6 screws along the lower section and the 4 up the outer edge near each door.

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Install the 3 screws along the windscreen
Next install the speedo, shroud and light switch, being careful with the imobiliser coil on the ignition switch.

Next, install the passenger storage compartment and grab handle

Install the A/C controller and lay all the cables into their correct locations

.

Finally, plug in all the switches and re-install the dash center section.

I have a lot more pics if anyone wants more info on any of the above.

Erich

**dmdigital** · 5th December 2010, 06:09 PM

Let me guess two fuel switches either side of the A/C switch are for

...
...and the SLS switch is for raising the rear air bags

**dullbird** · 5th December 2010, 08:15 PM

couple of hours spare...hahahahahahah you have put the entire dash back that would of taken most people bloody days....

**newhue** · 5th December 2010, 08:21 PM

Thanks Bundalene for the aerial measure.

You make me dizzy with how you just throw it back together.
LR have had the dash out of mine a couple times now, hopefully for the last time as well.
I found a spare screw on the floor under the mat, not even interested where it might have come from.

**Bundalene** · 6th December 2010, 06:23 PM

Originally Posted by dmdigital

Let me guess two fuel switches either side of the A/C switch are for

...
...and the SLS switch is for raising the rear air bags

Pretty close - I am toying with the idea of trying airbags sometime down the track, especially if I can score some from Hard Range.

I have added 4 switches, not connected yet. 2 are for sill fuel tank pumps, one for an air compressor and one rear work lights, a blank one yet to be labeled.

Series2 Disco light switches are the same physical size as the Puma and Defenders 2003 on switches and the smaller bezels are the same size as well.

It is just a matter of popping off the required bezel and clipping it back onto a latching switch cutting off the locating guide, then soldering and heat shrinking the connections.

Erich

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