I prefer the steel ones over the brass and have been known in some applications to goto the effort of "engraving" a track into them then polishing them up to permit oil flow into them.
same principle as the crosshatched cross piece.
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I prefer the steel ones over the brass and have been known in some applications to goto the effort of "engraving" a track into them then polishing them up to permit oil flow into them.
same principle as the crosshatched cross piece.
The internals (gears shafts, shims are the same but a different case is used in the LT230.Quote:
Originally Posted by steveG
As Dave says the steel ones last longer, but I use the brass ones as sacraficial items. You can monitor any wear by the colour of the oil. Any wear on the thrust washers will show up as a brassy look in the oil. If you have a TRB t/case the centre diff shims are the only thing that will show up as brass colour in the oil. With a normal roller intermediate shaft assembly the brass thrust washers will show this as well.
Great reading
just wondering where you are getting all your Genuine parts, ie bearings and shims from? need to start a lt95 rebuild soon myself.
In my case, from a number of different places depending on what it is and how long I'm prepared to wait to get it.Quote:
Originally Posted by County4.4
Genuine gaskets and some shims from Melbourne LR (about 10 mins from where I work so large convenience factor here).
CBC bearings have a listing for the bearings and seals, but dont actually stock a "kit" any more. Most of my bearings have come from there, again - close to work and prices seam reasonable. Can also confirm before you hand over your $$ that its a decent bearing not just a cheap rubbish one.
I got an aftermarket gasket/seal kit from LR parts place via eBay. Might have been CLR but not 100% sure. Have obviously had to buy some genuine ones since then so probably was false economy.
Some lighter/small stuff I've got from LRSeries in the UK as it was much cheaper but their freight can be expensive..
Steve
I get the housing machined down where te drive gear has worn the housing.
I then use the LT230 thrusts to minimise play in the diff centre.\
The LT230 cross shafts are a better design more easily obtainable you just cant use the end gears if you buy the kit because of the finer spline.
Something else I found out recently was that the brass washers that everyone complains about in an LT95 transfer were infact white metal from the factory.
Their construction appears to be very much the same as big ends or main bearings.
You can buy solid brass ones but they are thought not to be as good as the originals.
Interesting, everything I've read about them suggests that were bronze from the factory. Both of the ones I have on the bench are definitely bronze, but given that they are nearly 30 y/o boxes, it probably has no bearing on how they left the factory originally.Quote:
Originally Posted by djam1
Steve
I only found out from Kim at Land Ranger Spares in Adelaide when I bought some.
He offered me the choice of either type
I suspect Kim is on this site under another name he may chip in
The original thrusts were white metal coated bronze, but the coating was very thin from memory.
Wagoo.
Hi djam, the pinion shafts are the same item in the later LT95 diff centres (from about 12C serial number I think) and LT230. Part numbers for both is RTC3397 for a matched pair. The bevel pinions and side gears and thrust washers are all the same except the LT230 bevel pinions are machined for fine spline. The side gear thrust washers are available in steel R556633 or brass FRC6968..Quote:
Originally Posted by djam1