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Thread: LT95 rebuild for beginners

  1. #31
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    I prefer the steel ones over the brass and have been known in some applications to goto the effort of "engraving" a track into them then polishing them up to permit oil flow into them.

    same principle as the crosshatched cross piece.
    Dave

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  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by steveG View Post
    Thanks for the P/N's and kind words.

    I've actually ordered a set of each type of the spider gear thrusts as I they were cheap and I wasn't sure which ones I needed.
    Do you prefer one type over the other?

    Looking up the part numbers in Google, I get the impression that the LT95 center diff and the LT230 one use a lot of the same parts. Is it just the center gears etc that are common, or is the whole assy the same.

    Steve
    The internals (gears shafts, shims are the same but a different case is used in the LT230.
    As Dave says the steel ones last longer, but I use the brass ones as sacraficial items. You can monitor any wear by the colour of the oil. Any wear on the thrust washers will show up as a brassy look in the oil. If you have a TRB t/case the centre diff shims are the only thing that will show up as brass colour in the oil. With a normal roller intermediate shaft assembly the brass thrust washers will show this as well.
    Cheers......Brian
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  3. #33
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    Great reading
    just wondering where you are getting all your Genuine parts, ie bearings and shims from? need to start a lt95 rebuild soon myself.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by County4.4 View Post
    Great reading
    just wondering where you are getting all your Genuine parts, ie bearings and shims from? need to start a lt95 rebuild soon myself.
    In my case, from a number of different places depending on what it is and how long I'm prepared to wait to get it.
    Genuine gaskets and some shims from Melbourne LR (about 10 mins from where I work so large convenience factor here).
    CBC bearings have a listing for the bearings and seals, but dont actually stock a "kit" any more. Most of my bearings have come from there, again - close to work and prices seam reasonable. Can also confirm before you hand over your $$ that its a decent bearing not just a cheap rubbish one.
    I got an aftermarket gasket/seal kit from LR parts place via eBay. Might have been CLR but not 100% sure. Have obviously had to buy some genuine ones since then so probably was false economy.
    Some lighter/small stuff I've got from LRSeries in the UK as it was much cheaper but their freight can be expensive..

    Steve

  5. #35
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    I get the housing machined down where te drive gear has worn the housing.
    I then use the LT230 thrusts to minimise play in the diff centre.\
    The LT230 cross shafts are a better design more easily obtainable you just cant use the end gears if you buy the kit because of the finer spline.

  6. #36
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    Something else I found out recently was that the brass washers that everyone complains about in an LT95 transfer were infact white metal from the factory.
    Their construction appears to be very much the same as big ends or main bearings.
    You can buy solid brass ones but they are thought not to be as good as the originals.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by djam1 View Post
    Something else I found out recently was that the brass washers that everyone complains about in an LT95 transfer were infact white metal from the factory.
    Their construction appears to be very much the same as big ends or main bearings.
    You can buy solid brass ones but they are thought not to be as good as the originals.
    Interesting, everything I've read about them suggests that were bronze from the factory. Both of the ones I have on the bench are definitely bronze, but given that they are nearly 30 y/o boxes, it probably has no bearing on how they left the factory originally.

    Steve

  8. #38
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    I only found out from Kim at Land Ranger Spares in Adelaide when I bought some.
    He offered me the choice of either type
    I suspect Kim is on this site under another name he may chip in

  9. #39
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    The original thrusts were white metal coated bronze, but the coating was very thin from memory.
    Wagoo.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by djam1 View Post
    I get the housing machined down where te drive gear has worn the housing.
    I then use the LT230 thrusts to minimise play in the diff centre.\
    The LT230 cross shafts are a better design more easily obtainable you just cant use the end gears if you buy the kit because of the finer spline.
    Hi djam, the pinion shafts are the same item in the later LT95 diff centres (from about 12C serial number I think) and LT230. Part numbers for both is RTC3397 for a matched pair. The bevel pinions and side gears and thrust washers are all the same except the LT230 bevel pinions are machined for fine spline. The side gear thrust washers are available in steel R556633 or brass FRC6968..
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

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