Thread: LT95 rebuild for beginners

OK - so here's where I get a bit stuck as I physically haven't got the parts to finish off my center diff, but for the purposes of the guide I'd like to keep moving on.

So...lets pretend we've replaced any parts as required, got the shims and set it all up nicely, and bolted it back together with some medium strength threadlock (eg Loctite 241 ).

As I mentioned earlier, the bolting together needs to be done BEFORE pressing the rear bearing cone back on (otherwise you will have trouble getting the bolts back in).

The low-range gear gear can now be bolted on, and the high range gear and front bearing cone pressed on.

Seems pretty straightforward. Any tips for this stage or any other center diff info that needs to be added before we move on? (we'll deal with setting the bearing preload later once the rear output housing is back together).

Steve

Originally Posted by wagoo

Brian,you probably got your wires momentarily crossed, but to save confusion and keep this rebuild guide easy to follow, may I suggest we use standard terminology where possible to describe components. If we were describing an axle differential for example, the side gears are the ones with the internal splines, and the bevel pinions are the 4 smaller gears, sometimes referred to as spider gears.What you described in the above post as side gear thrust washer are in fact bevel pinion thrust washers as per one of your earlier posts.
Wagoo.

Wagoo, I wasn't trying to be technical, and yes I described the side gear as the wrong gear.just letting djam know that the LT230 internals are identical except for the splines and not different to the LT95.

Only thing I can think of that needs attention at this stage is to use loctite under the high range gear and front bearing. Both are usually not real tight on the centre diff housing. This stops wear on the splines and the bearing cone moving on the housing.

Originally Posted by Bearman

Only thing I can think of that needs attention at this stage is to use loctite under the high range gear and front bearing. Both are usually not real tight on the centre diff housing. This stops wear on the splines and the bearing cone moving on the housing.

Thanks - I'd forgotten about that.
I think this is where you've also suggested leaving them slightly loaded in the press overnight to make sure everything stays fully home while the loctite goes off?

Steve

wagoo, hes on the money.... (ok so he corrected it to the normal way..) but
it depends on if you were bought up on american, english or EURO. mechanicals....

my suggestion is if you have a description issue grab the break down pic of it from the parts manual (RPS) and then have all concerned persons label each part with their own term that way no one gets lost.

an unrelated example so that no-one can get confused.

is it a gudgeon pin, wrist pin, little end and what is it?

Originally Posted by steveG

OK - so here's where I get a bit stuck as I physically haven't got the parts to finish off my center diff, but for the purposes of the guide I'd like to keep moving on.

So...lets pretend we've replaced any parts as required, got the shims and set it all up nicely, and bolted it back together with some medium strength threadlock (eg Loctite 241 ).

As I mentioned earlier, the bolting together needs to be done BEFORE pressing the rear bearing cone back on (otherwise you will have trouble getting the bolts back in).

The low-range gear gear can now be bolted on, and the high range gear and front bearing cone pressed on.

Seems pretty straightforward. Any tips for this stage or any other center diff info that needs to be added before we move on? (we'll deal with setting the bearing preload later once the rear output housing is back together).

Steve

Sounds oK for determining preload, as long as the intermediate gear and front wheel drive output shaft and housing are not already fitted, and the intermediate gear would need to be fitted before finally fitting the rear output housing, because the housing locks the intermediate shaft in place. Depending on the high range gearset fitted,for final fitting of the centre diff you may have to hold the front bearing and high range gear in position against the front bearing cup first, and then slide the diff into them.If the front gear of the intermediate gear assembly is smaller in diameter than the middle gear, the prefitted high range gear and bearing may not pass the middle gear to mesh with the front gear If the front output shaft is fitted.Fortunately the high range gear and bearing are just a sliding fit on the diff.Eg .996:1 gears can be prefitted to centre diff and fitted to the case with intermediate gear assembly and front output shaft in place.The 1.33:1 Stage 1 V8 gears cannot. Hope that is not too confusing.

In the interest of clarity and accuracy I've edited this post probably half a dozen times.Is there any way on these type of technical forums to retain the Edit function, instead of it being disabled the following day?
Wagoo.

Great info, and no - not confusing (although I did have to read it a few times for it to sink in).
Great to have the relevant ratio information too.

Will cover the bearing preload as a separate task prior to putting everything back into/onto the case.

Steve

Originally Posted by steveG

The RRC parts manual doesn't have any listing for those drive gear shims. Is there a listing somewhere? There's also no mention in the manual of setting the preload in the diff itself (only the bearing preload).
Is there a published procedure somewhere?

Neither of mine had any shims under the drive gears. Should there always be shims?

Steve

That's because not all centre diff's had shims on the side gears, I believe only 110 LT95's did, otherwise its get some and machine the diff housing to take them