Thread: LT95 rebuild for beginners

While I was putting the rest of the speedo drive housing together tonight I found this little gem right at the end of the section (ie after you have followed all the the steps to reassemble it).

Alternative Rolling Resistance Method In-Situ
With front prop shaft disconnected, and rear drive flange removed, a rolling resistance of 6 to 7kg pull should be obtained using a spring balance (cord wound around differential).

Unfortunately I found that AFTER I'd fitted the rear flange and brake drum so I'm not going to measure to compare with my 3kg without the front housing.

Steve

The rest of the speedo housing reassembly is pretty straightforward.

Couple of things to note:
Firstly, the seal shouldn't go fully home against the bearing circlip. The manual says to drive it in until its only just past the chamfer on the housing.

I screwed this part up and pressed it in all the way as I didn't read the manual until later. I've checked where it sits on the seal and it seems fine to me. Will see if it leaks in service I guess.

The oil catcher that bolts on below the seal needs to have sealant between it and the backing plate. This is so that any oil that leaks out will make its way out the little drain hole in the backing plate, and not into the brake assy. (Good theory )



The original design has a felt seal under the flange retaining washer.
I threw that out and just used some loctite 518 under the washer to stop any oil getting down the splines. I also used some thread lock on the nut itself as I've read of numerous cases of the nut coming loose.



Finally, assemble the rest of the handbrake and adjust it. Fit the speedo drive assy and that's it (still need some rubber plugs for the adjuster holes in this photo).



Steve

Time to assemble the front bearing plate and input shaft.

First, press the bearing into the housing and locate the retainer plates (replace the plates with new ones if they are worn):



Next press the bearing (complete with bearing plate) onto the input shaft.

It was then that I discovered that my u-beaut 12T Supercheap press wasn't physically tall enough to take the input shaft
No problem, I'd just sit the input shaft on the bench and drive on the bearing using a hammer and a piece of pipe down over the shaft and onto the inner race.
Was working great until I noticed that the bearing had migrated about 8mm out the back of the bearing plate (as the retainer plates had come loose).
At this stage I was pretty committed to continuing - with the bearing half on the shaft, half in the plate, and no way of disassembling it that didn't involve hammer impact on the rolling elements of the brand new (expensive) bearing. Add the additional complication of loctite on the outer race and a warm day.....

Finally after much clamping, drifting, sweating, swearing and hammering it was all together properly.

So either use a big enough press, or if that's really not an option, clamp the bearing securely in the front plate after fitting it.
This could easily be done using the normal retaining plates bolted through some temporary pieces of flat steel on the front side of the bearing plate.

Once its all together you can then fit the appropriate size shim and the circlip to retain the shaft in the bearing.

The assembled plate, bearing and shaft (note that the layshaft bearing cup was fitted earlier when we set up the layshaft bearing preload):



Steve

Prior to conducting this step its vital that you check where the bearing seats into the plate for any signs of fretting. especially if your old retainer plates were worn.

Thanks Dave.
This box was OK, but the one that came with my 4bd1 was pretty bad. Retainer plates were worn, and the bearing had worn approx 0.5mm into the front plate/oil pump housing.

In the case where it has been fretting slightly but the bearing is still a press fit, is there anything else that can be done to help longevity other than fitting the bearing with some decent retaining compound and crossing your fingers?

Steve

providing the bearing still sits nicely you only need to loctite it to stop the outer race from moving loctite 641 is the best bet if its only got a little bit of fretting

if you can easily spot the turn marks and you can push it in and out without too much more than hand effort then you need to up the game a little and go for the 648 or the 603

if the bearing is a slide in slide out job with no requirement to use any kind of tooling then you need to head for the 660 if your this far into it you should also been cleaning down and then surface prepping with 7471 or 7649.

if you're beyond that its time to get the bearing housing oversized by a machinest at a +1mm radii and have him then make up an interferance fit collar.

The next job I did was to fit the rear mainshaft bearing into the case.

Here it is here - bearing and circlip fitted.



Wagoo posted this good info recently in another thread:Who Knows the LT95 well

Originally Posted by wagoo

<snip>
The bore in the casing for the mainshaft bearing is deep and a.tight fit.The bearing has to be drifted in past a circlip groove, and at this point it is easy to cock the bearing in the bore and if it isn't squared back up before drifting it home you can damage the bore to the extent that the bearing is a loose fit and may spin in service.Advice here is the heat up this area of the casing well, before attempting to fit the new bearing..
<snip>

I used the old bearing to drive in the new one - just ground a bit of the outside race of the old one so it was a loose fit in the bore. With heating up the case and putting the bearing in the freezer things went quite smoothly.

Fitting the seal was where I had trouble. I tried to use the same old bearing to drive it in, but ended up distorting the seal. Its a very tight fit in the case and you have to use a fair bit of force to drive it home.
Second time around I used something with wider face to drive it in.
One if the reasons I stuffed it up the first time was that the face of the transfer case is not perpendicular to the bore of the bearing/seal.
When I thought it was in place properly, I checked with a mirror and found it was still about 1-2mm away on one side - even though it LOOKED nicely seated from outside.
Finally got it seated - but with the final blow - the lip spring came off
Gave me something new to do for the next 10 mins before it eventually popped back on.
On the RH side of the photo you can see that the seal is sitting lower than the surface, but its just flush on the LH side.



Almost time to start putting it all back together

Steve

Originally Posted by steveG

As a side note, the front output flanges are the same on all RRC and 110 LT95's. The only one that is different is the Stage1 box which has much larger flange since it had a double cardan joint in the front shaft.

In my case both of my boxes are from Stage 1's. Since its going into a 110, all I had to change was to remove the Stage1 flange and fit a flange from a 110/RRC LT95.

Steve

Steve, Something to look out for here is that the stage 1 box has a longer front output shaft and front output housing than the 110 and RR box. If you are going to use this box in a 110 you will probably have to use the stage 1 drive flange and front driveshaft or make up a shorter front shaft.
Another trick with the mainshaft seal is to tilt it slightly in at the top as you fit it and it will go in easier. As you have noticed the housing where it fits is tapered in thickness. Putting the rear main bearing in the freezer for a while before you fit it is usually sufficient to get it in the housing without needing the housing heated up.