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Thread: Lt230se transfer box differential thrust washer inspection.

  1. #1
    alien's Avatar
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    Lt230se transfer box differential thrust washer inspection.

    After the centre diff thrust washers where mentioned on various threads when doing the oil leaks I thought I best look for signs.
    After finding a few brass peices behind the 2 cover plates I decided to inspect the centre diff while I have the trasfer box out.
    SDC10092.jpg
    *This is what I did, it may not be as done in professional workshops*
    These photos where taken after the dissasembly for this thread.

    Remove the High/Low cross shaft housing.
    SDC10093.jpg
    Remove the diff lock switch and lock the diff assembly.
    Undo the bolts holding the output housing to the main housing.
    SDC10094.jpg
    Slide the housing off carefully.
    SDC10095.jpg
    I undid the bolts for the diff at this point with an open ended spanner.
    As I found 2 missing washers I striped out the High/Low shaft for inspection.

    Lossen the detent grub screw for the high low selector shaft.
    Idealy remove the screw, spring and ball.
    I didn't at this point, I used a small allen key after the shaft was out to push them from the inside.
    SDC10096.jpg

    Continued next post...
    Cheers, Kyle



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    Slide the diff assembly out with the High/Low shaft attached.
    SDC10097.jpg
    Undo the diff bolts after marking the housing for reassembly purposes.
    Split and remove the retaining ring.
    Note the position of the cross shaft and planet gears and remove.
    SDC10098.jpg
    Mine after inspection had 2 badly worn washers and 2 missing from the planet gears.
    Note the dammage to the housing.
    SDC10099.jpg SDC10100.jpg
    I also removed the 2 sun gears to inspect the thrust washers.
    Don't mix them up as they are selectable shims!

    Reassembly will be the reverse of the above with locktite used as needed.
    Thanks to those who posted elsewhere for the heads up on this inspection.
    While some dammage has been done it could be worse.

    Sorry for the picture size, hope you get the idea.
    Cheers, Kyle



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    good work!!

    notice also in the last set of pics there are bits of thrust washer all the way up to the input bearing...

    not unusual i did one last week where there were no thrust washers left at all.


    jc

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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    good work!!

    notice also in the last set of pics there are bits of thrust washer all the way up to the input bearing...

    not unusual i did one last week where there were no thrust washers left at all.


    jc
    Thanks JC.
    It was one of your posts about this that made me look
    Clean up tommorow and I'll go from there.
    Cheers, Kyle



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    Thanks again for today mate - I think we all learned a lot. Having now pulled mine down I have the spider gear shims to replace on mine, but at least they were all there, although paper thin. The sun gear shims and the intermediate shaft shims are all in good nick, so only that and the intermediate shaft 'O' rings on mine.

    Oh, and one other difference is that mine has gaskets on all surfaces, not just silastic, so I'll need a few of those as well.

    Cheers - Gav
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

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    This I believe is something I need to do to mine. So you find that you need shims. Where do get them from?
    Cheers Hall

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    Interesting stuff

    I am going have to have a good read of this thread.
    Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hall View Post
    This I believe is something I need to do to mine. So you find that you need shims. Where do get them from?
    Cheers Hall
    Apparently this is the place to get all this sort of stuff - British Car Components - spares and parts for British cars, Melbourne Victoria, Australia

    I will be dropping in there this week - I think Alien will be too, I think the shims are only a couple of bucks each.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

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    Just had another thought after cleaning some parts on the TC today. As my box is put together with gaskets, and not just a bead of silastic, is there anything I need to be aware of as far as the centre diff bearing pre load goes? The gasket in effect will alter the pre load I would think - for any expert out there that has done this - am I on the right track here? Is it just a mattter of using a new gasket and torquing everything up to the correct spec, or do I have to go through all the trouble of measuring everything once assembled to check to see if I have this right?

    Also, I have found that the input shaft is quite tight to turn - what should I be looking for here? Again, the end plate at the non drive end of the input shaft uses gaskets - is this likely to upset the preload? - the spec for this is fairly tight - 0.000 to 0.003 inches, so not much wiggle room so to speak. Just wanted to check before I pull this apart.

    Hope that makes sense - Gav
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

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    alien's Avatar
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    What number box is yours Bacicat2000? Lt230???
    Yours is an earlier box as we spoke about(just so others are on the same page).
    Gaskets not salastic, different intermidiate shaft location and method of preloading those bearings.

    Have you got any of the old gasket left?
    You may be able to check the thickness of both.

    I droped my input shaft out today.
    The cover is just that, it then has another plate sandwiched to the main housing.
    The bearing end float is done with the sandwiched peice on mine via shims behind a pressed in bearing cone.
    I've done a clean up and all the bearings I've checked are good.
    This means I don't need to do any endfloat adjustments, just a refit.
    Cheers, Kyle



    The Good Oil.
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