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Thread: 55t press

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bush65 View Post
    Try to make the distance from the centre of the hole to edge of material not less than 1.5 times the bolt diameter - there are some exceptions (eg. can be a little less for machined or rolled edges), but that keeps it simple and is the universal rule of thumb for structural steel.
    Is this more for bolts in true shear? say like the bolts holding the head beams to the flat bar uprights? 32mm dia will work in the 100mm flat and be within your rule.

    I was looking at the bolts in my driveflanges and thinking no way 1.5 rule. But they are creating a friction fitting so shouldnt see shear (in a perfect world) right?

    where Im concerend about material left outside the bolt hole is bolting the 75x12 to the 100x16. The bolt passes through the 75 and will be going into the 16. These bolts are clamping and im not quite sure what forces they will see. The 75x12 is used to help stop the 100x16 buckling (my guess) below the table the uprights would be in compression and above it they would be in tenstion....when the press is in use??? In Dave's press he has used 3/8th bolts at 8 inch spacings passing through the 75 into his 19 (he has used 100x19, I had already ordered 100x16)

    If I use the 1.5 rule in 16mm I can use a 5.333333333 mm bolt. I was thinking 5/16 but may have to go to 6mm. Any smaller and I was thinking it to small to be any good??

  2. #32
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    As a bolt, the load is carried by the clamp which the bolt provides, the risk of the bolt tearing out or elongating the hole isn't there unless the bolt works loose. In which case the design has to be robust enough to survive until people notice it's loose. This is when the bolts see shear load.

    Don't forget the aesthetics too. While a M6 bolt might work, they look a bit lost on a 55ton press. M12 is where they start to look purposeful, M16 is where they start to command respect.
    I'd need a picture to understand exactly where you're talking about though.

  3. #33
    slug_burner is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    I think he wants to know what value to give X in this diagram


  4. #34
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    Thanks Slug, good simple pic and exactly what Im asking. Im sure John understood my question, and he gave a basic answer which I could actually understand. Now I have asked a bit more based on that, it is more complex but well within John (an others) knowledge base.

    I can see that there may be some variables, but given the 16mm flat will determine a 8mm center line, both in itself and through the edge of the 75x12, the 1.5 rule may still be valid.

    the next question will be since Im going to drill and tap the 16mm and some other areas, what determines thread type (coarse or fine) I personally like fine but nothing other than personal feel.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    As a bolt, the load is carried by the clamp which the bolt provides, the risk of the bolt tearing out or elongating the hole isn't there unless the bolt works loose. In which case the design has to be robust enough to survive until people notice it's loose. This is when the bolts see shear load.

    Don't forget the aesthetics too. While a M6 bolt might work, they look a bit lost on a 55ton press. M12 is where they start to look purposeful, M16 is where they start to command respect.
    I'd need a picture to understand exactly where you're talking about though.
    ahhh the old loose bolts. These will be simple to keep check on. See Slugs pic for the particular situation im referring. If you havent clicked on the link to "Dave's Press" I suggest you do. It is well worth it! At this stage Im basing mine on alot of his. I will not have the head beams and table cantilever past one of the uprights. I will not have the ram adjustable height. I will have the ram tram left/right.

    no way im putting a M12 into 16mm of material....

  6. #36
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    Thanks for the pic Slug_burner. Makes it perfectly clear.

    Serg, yes I think you're stuck on M6 or M8 there. More M6 bolts will give a better result than fewer M8's.
    As you were.

  7. #37
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    dougal,
    One could always mig glue an m16 nut over the m6 bolt head just to give it that ballsy look.
    Use lo-hy 316 rods for a nice bronze sheen - for aesthetics of course :-)

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  8. #38
    slug_burner is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    used M6 X 0.75, fine thread, will be better than M6 X 1.0 coarse thread. Better mechanical advantage, smoother build up of the clamping force, more threads per length etc.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverrescue View Post
    dougal,
    One could always mig glue an m16 nut over the m6 bolt head just to give it that ballsy look.
    Use lo-hy 316 rods for a nice bronze sheen - for aesthetics of course :-)

    S

    An office I used to work in had M24 bolts threaded into 16mm plate in the beams above reception.
    It looked wrong enough that about 1/3 of the people who noticed asked if it was real.
    Apparently it was.

  10. #40
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    here is a quick drawing to kick some sizes off. I havent drawn in the hole sizes, spacings etc as to leave that to discussion.

    Last edited by uninformed; 9th January 2017 at 07:10 PM.

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