Reply With QuoteVery interesting, I have a pair of D1 front axles disc to disc waiting for disassembly to get the needed bits. The handbrake is one issue I have not resolved. Keen to see your solution.
Swaggie
i can see light at the end of the tunnel.........who would have thought my camper trailer would have gained soooo much weight. i didn't really expect it to go anywhere near 1000kg than alone 12/1300kg
i built my camper last year and have been using it as much as we can, although the tug pulls her up OK the brakes are taking a hiding so i bit the bullet and decided electric over hydraulic would do nicely.....the main reason was i didn't want to ditch my custom axle
the axle started like this
than after a few trips it looks like this.....note the discs were removed at time of build and discarded
off i go and purchase some new disc's and second hand callipers.............which means i am now running all land rover components
to mount the callipers i needed a couple of brackets manufactured.....this took two attempts as some numpty didn't measure twice before drawing it up. the brackets come at no cost but i was still annoyed for stuffing the tradies around
fitting the brackets to the axle........i needed to space the brackets using washers, two my surprise the callipers sit dead centre
tomorrow night it will all come off and reassembled with loctite, new grease and actually bend the lock washers over (i cannot believe during the axle build i forgot to lock the nuts.....to my surprise the wheel bearing were still adjusted correctly). i should be able to sort the driver side as well tomorrow night than i start the plumbing
can anybody see any issues that i need to address before i progress?
disc shroud/stone guard....do i need to come up with anything i.e. retro fit some like whats on the rear of the defender? or are they not generally used on camper trailers with disc brakes?
i do have to track down some fittings to adapt the ball valve hand brake to the brake lines. I will post details of these components when i have finished the plumbing
TopicToaster
Very interesting, I have a pair of D1 front axles disc to disc waiting for disassembly to get the needed bits. The handbrake is one issue I have not resolved. Keen to see your solution.
Originally Posted by benji
........
Maybe we're expecting too much out of what really is a smallish motor allready pushing 2 tonnes. Just because it's a v8 doesn't mean it's powerfull.
One answer REV IT BABY REV IT!!!
Wizard
Kelvin
Why did you decide to go elec over hydraulic? Only due to had land rover parts to use?
Is there any advantage/disadvantage? or is this just as effective for trailers?
Why I ask is that I have a camping trailer build about to start and I wanted rover stud pattern so not sure if to you your way or just get elec brakes and hub with rover stud pattern
How do you find the leaf springs - no shocks - set up? I see much more complex builds but is it needed?
Skiboy
89 Orange Rangie UTE - our play thing - sadly now sold
75 Rangie/Series/Hybrid/LS3 - Bumblebee with a sting!!!!
2018 RRS - The new touring vehicle - replaces 2012 RRS
Swaggie
Why electric over hydraulic? my custom axle was already fitted with defender stubs and disco hubs .....I did a rough crunch of the numbers of a complete new quality axle v ad more bits to the existing. Not sure why but fitting land rover disc and calipers seem the most logical. This left me two options to operate them override type master cylinder or electric over hydraulic.....override would have been far cheaper but I didn't want the banging of the mechanism and the need to hop out each time you needed to reverse so electric over hydraulic won out again
The advantages.......I have no idea really as I have never had a braked trailer. I'm guessing disc would be better than drum (comparing it to cars), I have spare stubs and I think hubs and calipers highly unlikely I would need them, nice big bearings, easy to use handbrake, oh and if Kimberly kampers use them it must be the best, less maintenance than drums, better in salty conditions as I do go up the beach a bit.
Re suspension: it works as it should although I haven't done extended k's on heavy corrugations. I have probably done 4000km with a little bit of off road and its handled everything I have asked of it.
Most would by an off the shelf axle, electric drum. The 165 PCD is straight forward.....the D2 is a little harder to sort out
ChatterBox
SubscriberYou won't be disappointed with the result, presuming you are using the right actuator and controller. Several advantages that I can think of, such as being ab;e to reverse uphill without stuffing around, the fact that you are now carrying 2 spare hubs, spindles, calipers etc for your vehicle should you have difficulty in a remote area, brakes unaffected by corrugations, unlike electric brake magnets.
I wouldn't worry about cover plates, in fact i'm considering ditching them off the Defender as they just tend to fall apart, rattle annoyingly then fall off and scrape on the wheels....
YarnMaster
SupporterLooking good weeds
I also wouldnt stress on the disc stone guards
I havent had them either front or rear on the fender since I got it and it gets its fair share of dirt roads
Out of interest do you have the calipers leading or trailing?
I too will be setting up similar brake setup (tojo gear though) and at this stage I am thinking of mounting the caliper at the very top of the axle... thoughts?
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
Swaggie
er, not sure which is leading and which is trailing..........i set them up to mirror the rear diff i.e. the callipers are on the back side of the axle, the bleed point is uppermost as i thought this would make bleeding easierLooking good weeds
I also wouldnt stress on the disc stone guards
I havent had them either front or rear on the fender since I got it and it gets its fair share of dirt roads
Out of interest do you have the calipers leading or trailing?
I too will be setting up similar brake setup (tojo gear though) and at this stage I am thinking of mounting the caliper at the very top of the axle... thoughts?
S
AT REST
don't forget the position of the bleed screw must be at the eact top of the outer hydraulic cylinder.
Swaggie
the valve i am using for the handbrake is from these guys ALLSTAR - ALL48010 | Manual Brake Shut-Off Valve | IBRP.com.au - Australia
i just need to find an adapter so i can connect brake lines to it.......i will give them a ring tomorrow hopefully they will have something on the shelf
my hydraulic actuator was supplied by these guys via the dodgy online trailer parts supplier i used which happen to shut its doors while i was dealing with them Hydraulic Actuators after some nervous emails all the bits turned up
i didn't get the brake away module as i'm hoping i don't go over 2T
Master
What is the actuator cost?
I have a trailer based on a '88 RR chassis retaining the suspension and brakes. The system is hydraulic override and I am contemplating adding electronic control.
I'm keen to find out how your system works when your finished. How much control you have.
Regards Brad
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