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Thread: 130 Station Wagon with side fold pop top build

  1. #101
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Mackay QLD
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    Photos showing the holes filled with 403 structural filler, filed and sanded back and redrilled.

    The pole holder brackets are held by 3 M8 bolts. So these got the coring, structural filler treatment too.

    I scored the gas strut Aluminium plates with the grinder and then glued them on with 403, bolted them up and put 2 layers of 330g glass over both sides.

    I also glued in nuts to hold the pivots for the internal poles which hold up the canvas. These pivots, the same as used by Trayon, took ages to find. Easy once you know what they are called "stanfast crab claw plate". A "c-clip" on the end of the pole clips onto these guys, and the nylon on nylon provides a smooth pivot.
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  2. #102
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    Oct 2010
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    I then used a wide scraper to pull "Q cells" an epoxy easily sandable filler over the fibreglass. Filling grooves in the panel left by production. They were really lean on the epoxy. Wasn't so bad in areas I had glassed, as I was probably sloppier with the epoxy.

    Then sanded that smooth. The weather was dodgy as, with rain predicted for the next week, and foreseeable future. Taking my chances I sprayed on a couple of layers of primer, followed by hand painting on filler primer. After drying actually ended up being a nice pattern.
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  3. #103
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    Oct 2010
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    A photo to show how unforgiving paint/primer is, showing up a spot I missed with the filler.

    Then more sanding. First in bright sun - the panel was too hot to touch, then 15 min later in pouring rain. Also 3 very large birds used the panel for target practice on separate occasions during this time - the buggers.

    I then reprimed and sprayed it white. Definitely the worst paint job so far. The poor little Wagners had enough I think, and spraying a large flat panel horizontally was not a good idea. The gun also decided to start dripping out paint, but its white.
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  4. #104
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    Oct 2010
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    Mackay QLD
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    While the paint was drying I finished off the rear seat box. Closing the access hole with spare Aluminium and adding dynamat. Gluing marine carpet to the outside. Finished installing the water tank.

    Dynamatted the rest of the rear floor, and back of the rear seat box with "the new improved black chrome dynatmat". Which is no improvement at all really as the black colour makes it hard to mark out. Then glued foam over it, then carpet over that. I used a socket and hammer to punch out the holes in the dynatmat and foam for bolt holes which worked well. I tried a hole saw to do the same for the carpet which didn't.
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  5. #105
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    Oct 2010
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    I also dynamatted the rear sides, and rear door. The difference this stuff makes is amazing. The rear door now gives a dull thud instead of a drum noise. The thickness also evens out the various layers of Aluminium, letting the next layers of foam and carpet sit flat.

    After painting the inside of the roof I then lined up the hinge drilled 42 holes and sikaflexed and riveted it on. The hinge was another big saga with way too many hours spent looking for the best option. A "Centaflex" hinge would have been good but they only open to 165degrees. So I ended up back where I started at a stainless piano hinge. I also glued on a hollow rubber seal around the perimeter of the roof with locktite 401.

    Then using ladders, and a mate we got the roof up into position. The roof weighs around 27kg. It then became painfully obvious that I stuffed my measurements and the gutter was too high and would not allow the roof to fold down fully, putting some scrapes in my awesome paint job. Also in the excitement, I forgot to seal the Aluminium frame to the hinge before I put in the 42 rivets, which meant they all had to come out, which was painful too. So far 3 have shaken out of the box section - only 39 to go....
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  6. #106
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    Oct 2010
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    Gee it's a good feeling to finally have a roof on the car!
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  7. #107
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    Oct 2007
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    Wantabadgery, N.S.W.
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    Quote Originally Posted by danialan View Post
    His only real comment was about "flow through ventilation". I mentioned the numerous door seal and panel gaps that Land Rover builds into Defenders, and that the aircon only recirculates from the passengers feet, but he said that modern cars have flow through ventilation. Land Cruiser troop carriers have these vents (attached) on the rear which may suit, but a google around showed many threads on Cruiser owners blocking these vents up to stop water/dust entry. So I'm undecided, and will probably postpone this mod, as its not a show stopper.
    Those vents would also allow air to escape when the doors are closed and all the windows are shut. If you close all the vents and windows except the drivers side rear window ( open a couple of inches), then, standing close to and facing that open window, close the drivers door. you'll feel how much air needs to escape the cabin. Cracks and gaps will deal with some of it but it makes the effort of closing the last door greater when everything else is shut.

    Don.
    Last edited by p38arover; 22nd May 2014 at 03:05 PM. Reason: Fix end quote

  8. #108
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    Sep 2008
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    coburg
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    Were you in Brunswick Heads about a week ago? I was there for a holiday, and was checking out a defender, and i could have sworn it was the one featured in this build - no photo sorry.

  9. #109
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Mackay QLD
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don 130 View Post
    Those vents would also allow air to escape when the doors are closed and all the windows are shut. If you close all the vents and windows except the drivers side rear window ( open a couple of inches), then, standing close to and facing that open window, close the drivers door. you'll feel how much air needs to escape the cabin. Cracks and gaps will deal with some of it but it makes the effort of closing the last door greater when everything else is shut.

    Don.
    Hi Don, I know what you mean. I had a 130 dual cab in which I repalced the lower door seals with the post 2011 ones like this - Puma MY11 New Door Seals...at last It made the last door very hard to close as the air couldn't escape. I have roughly 2-3 times the air volume of a normal dual cab now and the doors are easy to close, but I haven't fitted the later lower door seals to this one yet. Another example is if you stand at the rear sides of a 100 series Land Cruiser with its air con on the air is really gushing out this relief vents. Unfortunately the (300tdi) defenders simple recirculating air con doesn't work that efficiently. I'm more concerned about reducing the back pressure, and getting more dust entry through the back door.

    But anyways, Central Qld Cruisers had a pair of vents off a 78 model Cruiser troop carrier for $35 delivered (pic below), so I though I'd give them a try. I plan on putting them in the rear corners of the tub just below the "bulge". So they have now joined the huge pile of parts clogging up the garage waiting to get bolted on.

    Quote Originally Posted by ashley View Post
    Were you in Brunswick Heads about a week ago? I was there for a holiday, and was checking out a defender, and i could have sworn it was the one featured in this build - no photo sorry.
    Hey Ashley. Noooo wasn't me unfortunately, it would have been lovely. This vehicle's done less than 400km in the last 7 months! It was probably one of Mulgo's creations , as per the pic below. His have 20cm more rear overhang at the back than mine (keeping the same length as the standard 130 tub), and a front fold pop top. I'm looking forward to getting this machine finished and out on the road in the near future, so if you do see me out and about, feel free to say G'day and have a sticky beak.
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  10. #110
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    Oct 2010
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    So the next step was to attack the gutter so the roof could fold down to horizontal. I first tried grinding which bubbled and burnt all the paint off the gutter. Then, after realising I had to take off allot more, used a cutting disk in the grinder to slice a strip off. Doesn't look too bad after a bit of paint, and the roof can now fold past horizontal.
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