Thread: 130 Station Wagon with side fold pop top build

Onto the spare wheel carrier.

I had planned to use 32mm steam pipe for the horizontal bars and 40mm for the upright, but somehow (probably over tiredness) I ordered 32NB and 40NB pipe which is 42mm and 50mm outside diameter. The blokes at the steel shop ended up supplying me not enough of the 32NB and too much of the 40NB. I wasn't going back, so decided to make the whole thing out of 42NB pipe.

The Land Rover Defender wheel studs are 16mm metric fine thread, which were hard to source in the length I needed, but luckily I remembered I had the original LR wheel carrier off Jaffles back door. So used the bolts off this. I also used the original outside door plate as a template to drill the holes in the pipe. Was a bit of mucking around with the grinder to get the bottom diagonal pipe to the right length/shape so the wheel stud bolt would line up through the middle of the tube. The wheel stud bolts go through both sides of the pipe. The tyre now sits in the middle of the rear door, at about the same height.

The carrier is held closed on the left by the standard pin that holds the Series Land Rover drop down tailgate closed. An LR Defender urethane panhard bush is a perfect fit over this pin and acts as a spacer/bush. I had already sliced this pin off the right hand side. The carrier is held open by a spring loaded 8mm bolt which goes into a slot drilled into the upper pin.

The next problem was that the pop top roof clip was in the wrong spot for the high lift jack shaft. I had put the clip in 100mm from the edge simply because it was an even number that sounded good at the time. After trying various positions, leaning the jack over cleared the clip and miraculously matches the angle on the side window panel.

The highlift jack foot sits on two 20mm high pins which go through two holes in the jack base plate. The shaft is then bolted on with a 10mm bolt. A bit of tubing, and then another old urethane panhard bush provides a spacer/buffer. The clear tubing is long enough so it goes all the way through the hole in the jack shaft, so as to stop any rattles. A hole drilled in the bolt allows the jack to be locked on. The jack needs to be on the 4th hole up to clear the lower diagonal bar on the carrier.

The whole carrier weighs 17kg, with 11kg of that being the swing away part. The most painful part was trying to get the crush tubes into the chassis, as they need to be a tight fit, but loose enough to slide in there. There is also poor access, goodness me what a job!

I had painted Jaffles carrier white, but I already have 4 shades of white on this machine and wanted to do something different here anyway. I thought it would be nice to match the galvanising on the capping, but cold gal was too grey and I find it doesn't stick too well, so went for "aluminium" colour which was of course much too shiny silver. Once it's grubby shouldn't be too bad.

For the kiddies bed, up above the front and rear seats, I had planned originally to use "posture slats" which were fairly cheap at IKEA with the double being the perfect width and a continuous slat (no middle support required down the length) - SULTAN LURÖY Slatted bed base - IKEA
These slats apparently only weigh 8.9kg. But with the nearest IKEA 1000km away and various other reasons I ended up going with a lightweight ply board.

I used 12mm lightweight ply. A 2400mm x 1200mm sheet weighs about 12kg vs around 20kg for a standard sheet. From the front of the roof to the cross brace the bed is 1.62m long and is 1.35 wide, which meant I needed to cut down two sheets. I added a support beam under the board to give it some more strength (putting this 300mm behind the drivers head), then put two layers of 330g fibreglass on both sides. Painted the top side with resin to make it smooth, then marine carpeted the underside. The board cut to size was only 8kg but by the time it was fibreglassed and carpeted it was up to 15kg!

At the front of the Aluminium roof frame I riveted and sikaflexed a 30x30x3mm length of angle, as I wouldn't have needed this with the posture slats. The other down side with a solid board vs slats is the need for under mattress ventilation such as this - AERO-MESH: PRODUCTS

I also started work on the cupboards. I am using "qubelok" for the framing, which is very light and strong, with a 6mm marine ply for the cupboard fronts. I used four and a half lengths of qubelok and each length is 6.5m long so around 30m of qubelok to make this! I am using Oates large drawers for storage as they are also light, and to save making the drawers myself. There will be 8 of these, the one where the fuel filler is needs one side to be trimmed slightly.

I also think I finally found the maximum wattage thin semi flexible solar panel to fit the bonnet indent. It is a 75 Watt panel that only required minimal trimming of the front edge to fit. It is sikaflexed and riveted on. The wires go through to the underside of the bonnet where there are quick disconnects to allow the bonnet to be removed. The panel is only 2mm thick, and looks like 2 layers of acrylic plastic with silicone in the centre. Only weighs 2kg. It has a twin panel, which will be mounted on the right side of the truck where the cupboard will block the window anyway. This will have hinges at the top to allow it to be tilted up to horizontal if required.

I also played around with the tent section poles to get them to fit nicely inside each other when closed, and give maximum space when open. The pole over the overturned fibreglass roof is extendible and held extended with spring clip - COI Leisure Tent Accessories, Accessories, Spring Button Clip For Tent Poles

Nice work again

I never realised how strong qubelok is until I bought the Trayon. Also looks easy to work with. Did it work out very expensive?

Where did you source the solar panel? Do you think not having ventilation under the panel will affect it's efficiently too much?

I bet the tent takes some perseverance

Thanks Ranga

Originally Posted by Ranga

I never realised how strong qubelok is until I bought the Trayon. Also looks easy to work with. Did it work out very expensive?

A length of qubelok (6.5m) cost me around $23 (times 5 lengths). The connectors cost between $1.70 and $1.90 depending on the shape. There are 25 connectors on the right side and 16 on the left. So it does add up but still not too bad. Plus it is probably cheaper most other places in Australia than Mackay!

It's not the recommended way, but I cut the qubelok with a wood blade in a cut off saw. You need a blade with lots of teeth. I clamped it each time and obviously kept my hand clear of the spinning blade . A mitre saw with an Aluminium blade would have been better, and saved a heap of time when I made the Aluminium frame for the roof.

I have attached some more photos of the cupboards. I cut the marine ply out of a continuous sheet following the grain onto the next cupboard, which was quite tricky wrapping it around, also working in the mirror image to mark the back of each panel. I put 330g of fibre glass (top and bottom) on each of the rear seat panels, and the floor of the cupboard, adding two strips of left over roof composite fibreglass panel under the glass to give it more strength. They are really solid now!

The qubelok frame weighs 3.2kg (Left) and 5kg (Right), the wood 3.5kg (L), 11kg (R), and each drawer weighs 2kg (2 left and 6 right). So a total of 10.7kg left, and 28kg right.

Originally Posted by Ranga

Where did you source the solar panel? Do you think not having ventilation under the panel will affect it's efficiently too much?

I got the solar panel off the net. I got them to measure the solar cell size before I ordered (they replied -the whole product size is 87cm long and 55cm wide. the actual cell size is 83cm long and 51cm wide). Please double check this before ordering as there may be variations in batches etc. - 3 DAY Offer 150W 2X75W 12V High Efficiency Flexible Solar Panel Sunpower Cell | eBay

Originally Posted by Ranga

Do you think not having ventilation under the panel will affect it's efficiently too much?

I'm not sure. Some things that I read on the net said that thin film panels are less affected by heat, with 25C optimal for efficiency, reducing 0.2% for every degree Celcius - Advantages Make Thin Film Solar Panels Shine | SolarTown Learning Article

My old rigid solar panels get too hot to put your hand on in the sun, this one is not too bad. Maybe the bonnet acts as a big heat sink? With dynamat and dynamat hoodliner under the bonnet my bonnet is cool to touch after 2 hour hwy run.

The panel on the side of the car produced the same output in the vertical position as the horizontal one on the bonnet in the midday sun (with the vertical one facing into the sun). With 150W total with the two panels I dont think I should have too many output issues.

I am more worried about the acrylic degrading over time? This panel apparently has a 10 year warranty? Or the diesel vibration affecting the soldered joints etc. Time will tell.


I also installed two hatches in the rear side panels to give access, as once the cupboards are in it would be difficult to access the boxes under the wheel boxes. This is a Ceredi 016595 hatch - Access Hatch, suits hole 205mm x 305mm, PVC, White With Lock and Handle | Caravan Access Doors | CaravansPlus The bolt (or rivet) holes just fit inside below the the floor of the wheel arch and above the floor of the box. And if your Series 3 back is anything like mine, then these two aren't parallel to each other or the side of the car!

Originally Posted by Ranga

I bet the tent takes some perseverance

I am fortunate that a good friend is very experienced in sewing canvas. So it is already done...

I do like those hatches - very convenient and aesthetically pleasing

For the canvas I used Dynaproofed Billabong canvas which is a 370g/m2 (10.9 oz) proofed weight canvas - http://www.waxcon.com.au/spec_sheets...-Billabong.pdf . It is the same weight as Trayon use. When I was looking at canvas the heavier weight canvas' were not any more waterproof, the extra weight just provides more abrasion resistance. I ordered 12 lineal metres of the "light sand" and eight metres of "olive" .

I spent too much time searching around for a screen which would be sandfly proof, as well as being strong enough to keep my two active toddlers safe in their bed 2m off the ground. Hours of joy looking up sandfy info and screens - NOT! Anyway I ended up going with Hiraoka Superscreen 239. It is finer than normal household screen with a hole just under 1mm,and seems pretty tough.

First I laid the canvas out in the back yard and hosed it to preshrink it. It shrunk 80mm (up the loom) over a 5m length.

At my friends place we made the front and end panels first. Putting in zippers, screens, and a strip of 25mm velcro around the inside of the window so I could velcro in a 0.2mm clear vinyl PVC "clear window" so we can zip down the canvas and have light when it is raining.

When they were finished, we put the sand coloured canvas over the top and measured out the window for the kitchen area, put that in then sewed the two strips together to cover the full length of the roof.

Next up was to position the canvas on the car, so as to trim the excess off the roof and make the join with the front and rear panels. The join in the two sand colours is matched up with the strip behind the rear passengers door.

There are also sleeves sewn with 50mm velcro down the length of the roof which hold the poles in position. I used 15x3mm aluminium strips to attach the panels to the inside of the car (there are sleeves sewn in for this purpose).

Then using 16 clamps, to hold the panels in position at the top, I slowly clamped and loctited (401) the seams together. Trimming off the excess canvas with my 3 year olds craft scissors (the rest are blunt from cutting fibreglass).