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Thread: D4 Rear Storage Project including drop fridge slide - Part 1

  1. #1
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    D4 Rear Storage Project including drop fridge slide - Part 1

    I thought that I would share my latest project on the Disco after some in the field testing (two trips to Moreton and one to Tin Can Bay in the last month!!!).

    Here is how it looks from the rear.



    Originally I had the plywood cover on the floor with the fridge on rollers on the left-hand side and a large plywood storage box on rollers on the right-hand side. I could still access the spare wheel winder by moving the fridge forward over the mid-row seats and flip up the ply baseboard and lift the passenger side third row seat.

    Issues that I had were:

    1. Could put anything on top of the fridge if I wanted to access it.
    2. The ply box was a pain as it was too large and tended to get too heavy when full of kit to remove easily.

    The two AGM batteries, compressor and miscellaneous electrics remain as they were originally put in (fuses, relays, marine switch etc). I removed the bases of the third row seats to fit them in. The batteries are strapped to the third row seat anchor points.



    I wanted to keep weight down and I had previously used the Queblok aluminium but had broken several of the plastic joints so I decided to go a bit heavier duty. I used aluminium U channel and the 25mm square to make the sides of the shelf setup. I didn't want to have a support in the middle as I wanted to try and maintain full width in the back for a solar panel if I get one. As the fridge was going to sit on top of the shelf, it needed to have sufficient strength and thick ply was going to be too heavy for me. I spotted the scaffold planks at Capral for $99 and cut that down to size.





    The shelf straps down to the rear anchor points with Fasty straps (400kg each) and to stop it sliding back there are 8mm bolts at the front on each side that secure it to the transverse aluminium support that the marine switch is screwed to (this transverse support is part of the floor panel). The space between the scaffold planks is used to put an Easyburn brazier and axe in as well as a good spot for the inverter.

    On the left-hand side of the rear scaffold plank I have installed a USB charger, 2 x 12V sockets, some more fuses and buttons that control the relays to turn on (left to right) - USB & 12V sockets, fridge power, inverter power and compressor. The extra hole was so I could get my finger in there to tighten up the nut that holds the switch in place - I need to find a rubber plug to suit.



    To connect the electrics in the shelf to the car I used some RJ45 jacks (switch controls) and 15A socket for the USB/12V sockets. The fridge has its own ARB connector and I used Anderson plugs for the inverter.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    D4 Rear Storage Project including drop fridge slide - Part 2

    Here's a shot off the electrical connections. I need to get a grommet for the Cat5. The rubber hose is to prevent the plastic sides getting scratched when moving the shelf in and out of the car.



    I bought some Hafele heavy duty drawer slides (225kg) for just over $100 on sale from the Internet and built the slide out of aluminium.





    The hinge points on the slide have 608 bearings so that the aluminium doesn't get chewed up and it makes it very easy to lift and lower. The handle retracts so that it doesn't foul the rear door of the car.



    I cut the slots for the retracting handle using a router with some kerosene to lubricate it - it took about 30min for each one. The piece that sits under the base of the slide (locking bar) in the photo above stops the fridge from dropping down. There is a simple lock with key on shock cord that prevents the fridge dropping until you are ready. The spare length of shock cord has a hook on it so when in the dropped position you can hook the fridge lid open.



    I tested the slide with the fridge on and filled it with water (60L fridge). The slide had no problems handling the weight but it was a bit heavy to lift. I camping mode with beers and food for a week it was no problem lifting and lowering the fridge.

    The only problem I have found was with the locking mechanism on the Hafele rails when locking in the closed position. The mechanism relies on the locking against the steel of the rail sides which is only a few millimetres thick. With the weight on the rails, they flex and the slide can open. I discovered this on the first trip to Moreton with it and the quick fix is the yellow Fasty strap you can see in the photos. I was thinking to make another locking mechanism however the Fasty strap is quick and convenient.

    I built all of this with basic tools (cordless drill, reciprocating saw, router, mitre saw, rivet gun and soldering iron) in the small garage in my town house. It took around two weeks of very part time work back in December (Christmas parties and work kept getting in the way).

    The system works really well with plastic tubs going in under the shelf and it has enough clearance to fit 30 can blocks of tinnies in there easily. The spaces between the shelf supports and sides fit the 40A DC/DC charger as well as providing good easily accessible spaces for snatch strap, compressor hose etc.

    The only issue is access to the spare wheel winder but I have a plan for that. I just need to source some parts and once done I'll share that with you guys as well.

    The next project will be a light weight camp kitchen that takes up the space beside the fridge.

    If you have any questions or want to see some more photos, just let me know.

    Dean
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by deano; 3rd February 2015 at 11:30 AM. Reason: Forgot about spare wheel.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    St Helena,Melbourne
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    Good job on the slide, been looking at the drop downs but the cost is more than my fridge so DIY it will be.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by deano View Post
    Here's a shot off the electrical connections. I need to get a grommet for the Cat5. The rubber hose is to prevent the plastic sides getting scratched when moving the shelf in and out of the car.



    I bought some Hafele heavy duty drawer slides (225kg) for just over $100 on sale from the Internet and built the slide out of aluminium.





    The hinge points on the slide have 608 bearings so that the aluminium doesn't get chewed up and it makes it very easy to lift and lower. The handle retracts so that it doesn't foul the rear door of the car.



    I cut the slots for the retracting handle using a router with some kerosene to lubricate it - it took about 30min for each one. The piece that sits under the base of the slide (locking bar) in the photo above stops the fridge from dropping down. There is a simple lock with key on shock cord that prevents the fridge dropping until you are ready. The spare length of shock cord has a hook on it so when in the dropped position you can hook the fridge lid open.



    I tested the slide with the fridge on and filled it with water (60L fridge). The slide had no problems handling the weight but it was a bit heavy to lift. I camping mode with beers and food for a week it was no problem lifting and lowering the fridge.

    The only problem I have found was with the locking mechanism on the Hafele rails when locking in the closed position. The mechanism relies on the locking against the steel of the rail sides which is only a few millimetres thick. With the weight on the rails, they flex and the slide can open. I discovered this on the first trip to Moreton with it and the quick fix is the yellow Fasty strap you can see in the photos. I was thinking to make another locking mechanism however the Fasty strap is quick and convenient.

    I built all of this with basic tools (cordless drill, reciprocating saw, router, mitre saw, rivet gun and soldering iron) in the small garage in my town house. It took around two weeks of very part time work back in December (Christmas parties and work kept getting in the way).

    The system works really well with plastic tubs going in under the shelf and it has enough clearance to fit 30 can blocks of tinnies in there easily. The spaces between the shelf supports and sides fit the 40A DC/DC charger as well as providing good easily accessible spaces for snatch strap, compressor hose etc.

    The only issue is access to the spare wheel winder but I have a plan for that. I just need to source some parts and once done I'll share that with you guys as well.

    The next project will be a light weight camp kitchen that takes up the space beside the fridge.

    If you have any questions or want to see some more photos, just let me know.

    Dean
    Great work Deano. Do you know how much it weighs without the gear inside it?

    Thanks

    Shane

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by plusnq View Post
    Great work Deano. Do you know how much it weighs without the gear inside it?

    Thanks

    Shane
    Hi Shane,

    the platform part without the fridge slide bolted onto it is about 12kg. The fride slide setup minus the steel drawer runners is about 3kg and the drawer runners are 10kg.

    I'm nowhere near the biggest bloke in the world but I can lift it in and out of the back on my own OK - it's a bit awkward because of the shape and the weight is offset to one side.

    The missus and I can lift the whole setup including the fridge into the back without too much problem - just drop the suspension so you don't have to lift as high.

    Dean

  6. #6
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    Thanks Dean. Very helpful.

    Cheers

    Shane

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