Thread: PROJECT 1, modular draw and sleeping area

At last the next instalment.

The basic sleeping deck is now finished and I’ll run through the assembly from making the last of the framework, to gluing the carpet to the deck and then to putting it all together.

Two smaller mirror frames have been made using the same materials as used to make the rear deck frame.

I have not included any plans for these two frames. Although they are pretty straight forward, they still needed modifying a number of times after they were first made.

The main reason for the modifying was that after they were made and put in place and even though I had taken all the measurements that I thought I would need, once I had them in position I found that the floor in the rear passenger section although appearing to be flat, actually has a slight curve from one side, over the centre to the other side and this didn’t show up until the two frames were put in position for the first time.

This first picture shows the two mirror frames before they were modified to fit.


This picture shows the the two frames in position.






Once the framework was finished and fitted, the front deck section was cut to size and this next picture shows the under side of the carpet with the glue applied.


Note the small strip down the left side of the carpet. This area is to contact the top of the deck but a little trick was learnt while doing the first deck section.

I have left this area free of glue, both on the carpet and on the deck itself, this allows the deck to be move around the get it properly lined up before laying it down on the carpet.

You’ll also notice I have only applied the glue in strips. This is not to save glue but to save time. Using contact glue, I had 20 to 40 minutes, depending on the whether, to apply the glue and let it get tacky before sticking the carpet onto the deck.

With the deck and carpet side by side, the glue is applied in strips running at the same angle, then when the deck is turned over to be placed on the carpet, the strips will now be diagonally opposite and this means the glue strips will be guarantied to come in contact with other wherever the strips cross.

With the carpet glued to the deck top, all the corners are cut to shape and then all edges are glued down.

With all the major parts now finished, its time to put everything together and see how long it takes.


First, the rear seats are folded down.


The two front mirror sections are put in place from either side door.


The rear frame is pushed into the rear with the rear deck in place and the front deck section laying on top.


Next the three frame sections are bolted together using two bolts from the rear deck frame to hold the two mirror frames in place.

Then the front deck section is slid into position and the hatch put in place.


All done, ready to drive away in 4 minutes and 58 seconds.
As I originally hoped I could remove the rear seats and put the sleeping deck together in around 20 to 30 minutes, by redsigning and allowing to leave the seats in place, the assembly time has worked out much better than expected.

There are still a few things to do yet before this project is complete but at least there is some light at the end of the tunnel and now it’s time for any feed back and suggestions.

Cheers

Looks great drivesafe and I hadn't considered using plastic corners for construction.....I take you avoided welding completely? Have you simply clicked the corners into the tubes or have you screwed these in place? Also is the system fixed to the floor at all? Your sections over the rear seats has given me a few ideas for mine as well so thanks for the great development shots and explanations.

Catch up with you soon and keep posting if you have any more pics as you go.

Mick

Hi MickG, first off, as a welder I make a good fence painter. ops: ops: ops: ops: ops: ops:

Seriously though, I had reservations about using the QUBELOK set up and was planning to use steel tube and was going to get a mate to weld it all up.

As the plan evolved and changed and I got some feed back from others who had used QUBELOK, I decided to go with the QUBELOK ( and after already buying the steel tube ).

After putting the rear section together, I stood on it and found it to be rock solid ( I weigh in at just under 130kg ).

I still have a few things to do and one is to make, or more to the point, modify a couple of hinges that will simply clip over the RR’s existing tie downs on either side of the luggage bay and once the rear section is in place, the hinge will be flipped up under the frame and fixed to a bolt.

There are no holes being put in the RR so that when the framework is removed, there will be no evidence that it was ever there.

Also, as the combined weight of the rear frame and rear deck is less than expected, I am considering permanently securing the two components together.

I have yet to fit the flush pull handles ( I bought some but have to replace them as they don’t have springs in the pull-up so they will rattle )

And last will be the installation of two rear doors, have not decided on what type as yet.

Cheers.

By the way MickG, the QUBELOK plastic corners have to be hammered into place and no other fastening is needed.

Cheers.

Thanks drivesafe, that has certainly given me the inspiration I needed to re-jig the back of my car.

Speak to you soon, Mick

Sweet mother of Jesus that looks Good.....
Mine looks Crap compared to that.....

Time to paint mine...