Thread: LT95 gear inspection

I'd replace those 2 gears and the input shaft (primary pinion), you will probably get away with the synchro hub, it's not bad. What is the other synchro hub like, you haven't included a pic of it. By the look of that input shaft I would say the 3/4 hub has copped a bit of punishment.

Thanks Brian, I was hoping you'd be on-line.
Ok, so I've been a bit more systematic in my photo taking with the worst example of gear and synchro for each.
Here are the shots of the gears and synchros from the Range Rover box.
The Primary is the only gear that looks possible - but it has rust on the drive pinion (because it had been left exposed) that may discount this one from being used.

1st Gear



2nd Gear



3rd Gear



Primary

And here are the photos of the V8 gears and synchros - again, the worst section of each. I'm hoping that the synchros on this box may be usable. Certainly looks like both boxes have been given a pretty hard time - or is this normal for boxes of this age (box numbers 881054567A for the V8 and 35556274C for the RR)?

1st Gear



2nd Gear



3rd Gear



Primary

Hi Pete,
1st box................. scrap from what I can see
2nd box.................You will need to replace all gears (1,2&3). You will probably get away with the synchro hubs but you might find gear selections tighter than normal. 4th gear (the input shaft) has copped a flogging but may be ok to use seeing as how it never gets a downshift. As long as you use genuine synchros and don't do lightning gearshifts you should be ok. Don't worry about rust on the end where it sits in the spigot, just linish it off and install a new spigot bush as well.
Cheers....Brian

Thanks Brian, that's the advice I needed. I'll start hunting down the parts.

A couple of things I learnt while getting these boxes apart:-

Firstly, withdrawing the front plate with the Primary Pinion and layshaft can be a pain. As SteveG found in his great thread on "LT95 rebuild for beginners" the front plate will move about 15mm then jam.

I'm pretty sure the main culprit is the inner of the roller bearing on the bottom of the layshaft fouling 1st gear on the mainshaft. This can be solved by removing the cover of the reverse gear housing and inserting a lever (long screwdriver) against the layshaft as you pull the front cover - pushing the bottom bearing out of the way of 1st gear (holding your tongue the right way helps too).

And secondly, getting the sliding blocks out of the synchro hubs provides a bit of a challenge. The ball bearings in the hubs need to be pushed down (all at the same time) to withdraw the outer hub. I found a perfect tool for this was the inner spring from plastic cloths pegs. Shown below are the three cloths peg springs inserted between the sliding blocks and the outer hub (note the components marked for re-assembly). Then remove the outer hub inside a plastic bag to catch the balls and springs. Hope this helps someone...

Thanks for posting those photos. I was an area that I skipped over a bit when I did my rebuild thread.

Putting all the exploding bits in a plastic bag before disassembly is a good tip too.

Steve

Awesome, why why WHY did i not put my synchro in a bag?? Ting ping bugger! I will be using this technique when i get back home and take apart my LT95 again.

I had swapped out an old RR LT95 into my FC101 now the bugger wont change down into 2nd gear (i can go up from 1st......sometimes).

No idea what I've done wrong however this was my first time taking apart a box so probably lots. However i think its something to do with the bits that hold the springs and ball bearings (can't remember the name).

If anyone can shed any light on this or things to check i would be grateful.

Oh and i also was having trouble getting the front plate off.....lever through the reverse plate........Brill, thanks mate!

Hi waterdude and welcome, a lot of the problems with not selecting 1st or 2nd on downshifts can be related to the mating surface between the synchro ring and the gear. An old mate of mine years ago showed me how to fix that. Basically what is happening is that the synchro ring is working too well and not allowing the gear to move a little when selected and allow the synchro hub to slip and engage the gear dogs after the synchro ring. The fix is to use 1200 sandpaper on the synchro surface of the gear before installation and make it smoother thereby allowing the gear to move a little even when the syncho is engaged with the synchro hub. Castrol syntrans is known to aid this as well and make shifts easier.