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Thread: Series II Cylinder head removal step by step

  1. #1
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    Hi everyone,

    been a while since i got a chance to post in here. I have just removed the cylinder head for inspection and overhaul of any parts that look suss and thought i would post the strip down photos for everyone to see

    This all came about due to a leak that we think may be coming from the valve stem seals. So here we go

    (i had already removed the tappet cover which was done using a 1/2" spanner on the three hold down nuts on top of the cover before i remembered the camera)

    Also drain the coolant out of the radiator before starting this project

    first step was removing the spark plug leads and spark plugs, nice and easy



    next we tackled the oil gallery pipe, another easy job. we only removed the top bolt, also be carful as there is a washer on both side of the oil pipe head, we found out because we dropped one on the floor

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    Last edited by p38arover; 20th March 2015 at 09:08 PM.

  2. #2
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    removing the coolant hoses seems easy till you try and wrestle the rubber hoses off, cost me a skinned knuckle removing the coolant by-pass hose and a little blood



    we then loosened the lock nuts on the tappet adjusting screws so they would disengage the pushrods

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    Last edited by p38arover; 20th March 2015 at 09:10 PM.

  3. #3
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    then it was on to the bolts on the rocker brackets.

    To make sure i put every bolt back in the hole it came from i got a paint pen and numbered them 1 to 5 with number one at the front of the motor, probably not necessary but just thought i would do it.



    took a bit to lift off the rocker shaft assembly off, but at least i didn't lose any skin

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    Last edited by p38arover; 20th March 2015 at 09:12 PM.

  4. #4
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    with the rocker assembly out of the way the next step was to remove the push rods, which simply slide out of their holes.

    I punched 8 holes into a plastic lid and numbered the holes 1 to 8 so the push rods will go back in the right order. Number 1 being the front of the motor.



    getting real close now

    had to rehash the last photo as the photo with the push rods removed was blurry Hahahaha

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    Last edited by p38arover; 20th March 2015 at 09:14 PM.

  5. #5
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    final piece of the puzzle, removing the cylinder head

    will let you all know what we find and what needed to be replaced before it all goes back together, hope this helps someone else

    cheers everyone

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    Last edited by p38arover; 20th March 2015 at 09:14 PM.

  6. #6
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    goodonya mate. These kinds of 'step-by-step' with diagrams and pics and 'watch out for' notes are a great way to help those of us who have not done these things before. And let's face it, the only vehicle in the world that I, as a novice, felt comfortable even trying such things so that I could learn a new skill was a Series Landy.

    My Green Bible has guided me, but for those who don't have one (and even for those who do?) it doesn't hurt to have this kind of resource on an online forum like this.

    Those who have been doing these things for years and years may not need this kind of thing; but there are lots of others who do.

    So...thanks and keep it up.

    Nice looking engine bay, btw. Well done.

  7. #7
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    Cheer Gary

    I have 0 knowledge on motors and rebuilds as a whole, that's why I take step by step pics and then when I find the problem I let every know so it all makes sense as to why I pulled some thing apart to start with.

    And this forum has been an absolute gold mine of info and tips from the local gurus in here has made my rebuild a lot easier. These step by steps is also a way for me to give back to the forum. Glad you liked it 😄

  8. #8
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    A good write up, Josh. Thanks for letting us move it to Projects and Tutorials.

    I think that engine bay and engine are a bit too clean. Are you sure it's a Landy?

    Ref removing coolant hoses, I get a screwdriver and work that in and around the hose to break the seal.
    Ron B.
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    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  9. #9
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    update on what we found to be suss

    the valve stem seals were perished, they were showing signs of cracks and one of them broke in half when we pulled it out.

    also after looking at where the valves seat against the head we could see signs of a couple of them not seating properly.

    so i have ordered all new valve guides, valve stem seals and valves all up around $200ish.

    the head i will be taking into a local engine reconditioning shop to lap the valve seats once the new ones arrive, scared about the cost of doing this bit

  10. #10
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    the springs all measured around the same and being not to far off factory spec they are all going back in.



    and thought i would show the tool i used to remove the valve springs

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